Using two monitors for development: Wireless Display, USB to HDMI adapter, H96Max Android device etc.
Quick-Info
- DML can use either its 11.6 in. internal monitor or my 15.4 in external monitor using HDMI cable, as an extended monitor to DPC.
- Wireless Display optional feature has been set up on both DPC and DML.
- DPC and DML can be connected using Mobile Hotspot of Samsung phone.
- On DML, Settings -> Project to this PC -> Launch connect app.
- On DPC Win + K -> Choose DML.
- Now DML will act as extended monitor to DPC.
- Performance seems to be good enough even for Youtube video streaming on DML extended monitor.
- A performance improvement possibilties is: Better WiFi adapters at least on DPC if not both DPC and DML.
- Wired LAN setup using old Netgear router did not help as that wired network was not used for Wireless Display.
- USB 3.0 to HDMI adapter can be used on DPC to connect 15.4 in. monitor directly to DPC. DPC hardware may be good enough for decent performance in this setup. Low end generic USB 3.0 to HDMI adapters are available in the Rs.570 to Rs.1000 range but known brands like UGreen adapter is around Rs.2500.
- Internal Graphics card can be added to DPC to connect 15.4 in. monitor directly to DPC. This could involve upgrade of SMPS.
- H96Max connected to 15.4 in. monitor can act as independent display for Internet reference info.
- H96Max can also be an Android device testbed for my Android apps.
- Phone casting to H96Max does not work now as phone cannot act as mobile hotspot and be a casting device at the same time. Even if phone and H96Max are connected using Netgear router (over WiFi) as H96Max Cast receiver app of AirScreen needs Internet connection and that will need putting on mobile hotspot on phone, this setup also does not work for phone casting to H96Max. It used to work in the past when I had BSNL Broadband. I think then the broadband modem acted as the network router providing LAN for both H96Max and phone to connect. That freed up phone to use casting feature/apps like Smart View of Samsung/third-party apps to H96Max.
- Connect computer (DPC or DML) directly to one of the LAN ports (1, 2, 3, or 4) on the WGR614v9 using an Ethernet cable.
- On computer browser, go to 192.168.1.1 (or routerlogin.net).
- Login using user: admin, password: password
- Disable DHCP: LAN Setup -> Turn off Use Router as DHCP server
- Set Router IP to 10.0.0.1 [Subnet mask should be left as 255.255.255.0] [Key issue here is to ensure that router IP does not conflict with mobile hotspot IP if that is active.]
- Click Apply -> If prompted for id/pwd. use admin/password -> You will be shown "Updating Settings" progress bar.
- Connect other computer to router with Ethernet cable on free LAN port.
- Now both computers will be given Automatic Private IP Addressing (APIPA) for their Ethernet connections in the 169.254.x.x range.
- Ethernet adapters on both computers should ideally be in private profile as otherwise Windows Firewall may block network requests. To set adapter to private profile:
- Open Powershell admin console.
- Run 'Get-NetAdapter' and note the Ethernet adapter name.
- Assuming the ethernet adapter name is Ethernet, Run: Set-NetConnectionProfile -InterfaceAlias "Ethernet" -NetworkCategory Private
- Above command will give no output typically. On checking profile now, if command was successful, profile will be shown as private.
- Now DPC and DML should be able to see and access each other including for casting from one to another.
- Connect computer (DPC or DML) directly to one of the LAN ports (1, 2, 3, or 4) on the WGR614v9 using an Ethernet cable.
- On computer browser, go to 192.168.1.1 (or routerlogin.net).
- Login using user: admin, password: password
- Keep DHCP enabled: LAN Setup -> (If required) turn on Use Router as DHCP server
- Set Router IP to 10.0.0.1 [Subnet mask should be left as 255.255.255.0] [Key issue here is to ensure that router IP does not conflict with mobile hotspot IP if that is active.]
- Netgear admin Setup -> Wireless Settings (which is different from Advanced -> Wireless Settings):
- Enable Wireless Radio: Make sure the Wi-Fi radio is turned ON.
- SSID (Network Name): Give your Wi-Fi network a unique name (e.g., "MyLocalCastWifi").
- Security Option: Use WPA2-PSK [AES]. Set a strong password.
- Channel: Leave it on "Auto"
- Apply/Save Settings.
- If the router does not reboot, power off device for 10 to 15 seconds and then power it on again.
- Connect devices like phone, H96Max, computer (DPC/DML) to WiFi network identified by above specified SSID and provide the password.
- Now the devices will be connected on WiFi LAN provided by Netgear router.
Details
1. If you want both monitors to display the same content (duplicated display):
- HDMI Splitter: This is the simplest option. An HDMI splitter takes the single HDMI signal from your PC and sends it to two or more monitors.
- Pros: Easy to use, relatively inexpensive.
- Cons: Both monitors will show the exact same image.
You won't be able to extend your desktop and have different applications open on each screen.
2. If you want both monitors to display different content (extended display - highly recommended for productivity):
This is the more common and generally more useful setup. You'll need an adapter or docking station that provides an additional video output.
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Check for other video ports on your PC: Even if you only have one HDMI port, your desktop PC likely has other video output ports, such as:
- DisplayPort (DP): Many modern graphics cards have DisplayPort.
You can use a DisplayPort to HDMI adapter or cable to connect a second monitor. DisplayPort often supports higher resolutions and refresh rates than HDMI. - DVI: Older PCs might have a DVI port. You can use a DVI to HDMI adapter or cable.
- VGA: Very old PCs might have a VGA port. While you can use a VGA to HDMI adapter, the quality will be lower, and it's generally not recommended if other options are available.
- USB-C with Display Alt Mode (Thunderbolt): If your PC has a USB-C port that supports "DisplayPort Alternate Mode" (often found on newer machines, especially those with Thunderbolt), you can use a USB-C to HDMI adapter or a USB-C docking station with multiple video outputs.
- DisplayPort (DP): Many modern graphics cards have DisplayPort.
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USB to HDMI Adapter (External Graphics Adapter): These adapters connect to a standard USB port (preferably USB 3.0 or higher for better performance) on your PC and provide an HDMI output.
They have their own graphics chipset to render the display. - Pros: Relatively affordable, works even if your PC has no other video outputs.
- Cons: May not be suitable for graphically intensive tasks like gaming, as performance can be limited by the USB bandwidth. Drivers are usually required.
- Look for "USB 3.0 to Dual HDMI Adapter" if you want to connect two monitors this way, as some single USB to HDMI adapters will only give you one additional output.
-
Docking Station: A docking station can be a more comprehensive solution, especially if you need multiple additional ports (USB, Ethernet, etc.) beyond just video outputs. Many docking stations come with multiple HDMI or DisplayPort outputs.
- Pros: Provides multiple video outputs and other useful ports, can simplify cable management.
- Cons: Can be more expensive than simple adapters.
Understanding the Core Technology: Miracast
Windows 11's primary built-in wireless display technology is Miracast. Miracast allows a Windows PC (sender) to project its screen to a compatible receiver. The crucial part here is whether your H96Max Android device can act as a Miracast receiver.
Can your H96Max act as a Miracast receiver?
Many Android TV boxes and Android devices do support Miracast, but usually as a sender (to cast the Android device's screen to a TV). For it to act as a receiver for your Windows PC, it needs to have a built-in "Miracast Receiver" app or a similar function.
Here's what you need to consider and how to check:
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H96Max Built-in Receiver App:
- Check your H96Max's apps: Look for an app named something like "Miracast," "Wireless Display," "Screen Mirroring Receiver," "Cast," or "Connect" in your H96Max's app drawer.
- Settings: Dive into the H96Max's settings, typically under "Display," "Connected Devices," or "Network & Internet," to see if there's an option to enable it as a wireless display receiver.
- Common Apps: Some Android TV boxes come pre-installed with apps like "AirScreen" or "Miracast Receiver" that can enable this functionality. If not, you might be able to install one from the Google Play Store on your H96Max (search for "Miracast Receiver" or "Wireless Display Receiver").
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Windows 11 Setup for Wireless Display:
- Install "Wireless Display" Optional Feature: Windows 11 doesn't have the Miracast receiver functionality enabled by default. You need to add it:
- Go to Settings > Apps > Optional features.
- Click "View features" (or "Add a feature" in older versions).
- Search for and select "Wireless Display" from the list.
- Click "Install."
- Configure Projecting to this PC:
- After installation, go to Settings > System > Projecting to this PC.
- Set the first dropdown to "Available everywhere" or "Available everywhere on secure networks" (if you're on a private network).
- Choose your preference for "Ask to project to this PC" (e.g., "First time only").
- Launch the "Wireless Display" App: After setting up, search for "Wireless Display" in your Start menu and open the app. This will put your PC in "listening mode" to receive a projection.
- Install "Wireless Display" Optional Feature: Windows 11 doesn't have the Miracast receiver functionality enabled by default. You need to add it:
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Connecting your PC to the H96Max (as an extended display):
- Network: Ensure both your Windows 11 PC and your H96Max (and the 15.4-inch monitor it's connected to) are on the same Wi-Fi network (your mobile hotspot in this case).
- On your Windows 11 PC:
- Press Windows key + K (the "Cast" shortcut).
- This will open the "Connect" sidebar. Your H96Max (or the name it identifies itself as a Miracast receiver) should appear in the list of available devices.
- Select your H96Max from the list.
- You might get a prompt on your H96Max/15.4-inch monitor to allow the connection. Accept it.
- Extend your Display: Once connected, go back to Display settings on your Windows 11 PC (Right-click desktop > Display settings). You should now see two monitors. Select "Extend these displays" under "Multiple displays" to use the 15.4-inch monitor as an extended desktop. You can then arrange them as desired.
Potential Challenges and Performance Expectations:
- Miracast Compatibility: While many Android devices support casting from them, acting as a receiver for a PC's extended display can be hit or miss with Android TV boxes. Some H96Max models might have this functionality readily available, while others might not, or it might require specific apps.
- Performance: Even if it works, Miracast for an extended desktop can have noticeable lag and compression artifacts, especially for dynamic content. For largely static, scrollable content as you described, it might be acceptable.
- Resolution and Aspect Ratio: The resolution and aspect ratio might not be perfect on the 15.4-inch monitor, potentially leading to black bars or slightly blurry text.
- Reliability: Wireless connections can be less stable than wired ones. You might experience occasional disconnects.
- DRM/Protected Content: Miracast might have issues displaying DRM-protected content (like streaming services) on the second screen.
In summary:
It's worth a try since you already have the H96Max and the monitor. The key is whether your specific H96Max model has the necessary Miracast receiver software. If it does, and you're fine with potentially lower performance for static content, this could be a cost-effective solution for your extended desktop need. Good luck!
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It took quite long for Windows11 Desktop PC (DPC) to install the Wireless Display optional feature. It needed an unmetered Internet connection. Further, it reported can't add even after taking long to probably do some download. But after some retries, it got added!
Then I tried lot of apps and stuff on H96Max to see if it can act as a connected display to DPC. Nothing worked.
Next I added Wireless Display optional feature to Windows 10 Dell Mini Laptop (DML) ...
Me: I am running into some hopefully temporary issues on my desktop pc. When I had made the connection unmetered, it downloaded a cumulative update and as I happened to restart the pc, it has got into its installation stuff. Even after it let me log in, Windows update is hogging the disk - as per task manager - seems like it is still doing the installation of the update. that has desperately slowed down the pc and that is impacting connecting from desktop pc to laptop as wireless display. But it did work briefly indicating that once the installation part is done, I may be able to use the laptop monitor as an extended monitor. note tht my windows 10 laptop is low end celeron dual core and so may struggle a little.
Gem: You've hit a very common and frustrating Windows Update scenario! It's perfectly normal for a significant cumulative update to hog resources (CPU, disk I/O) for quite a while after the initial restart, as it finalizes installation, configures components, and performs background tasks.
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Eventually the install of that cumulative update failed.
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Meanwhile I wanted to check if I could easily cast my phone to H96Max connected 15.4 in. monitor. I recalled that I had done it in the past. Just for info. sake, I wanted to check it out. [26 Jun 2025 Update: [Then IFIRC, I had BSNL Broadband connected to a WiFi router. So perhaps I connected both H96Max and phone to WiFi router's network. Mobile Hotspot was not used on phone. This setup seems to be good for casting from phone to h96max. Now I don't have Internet through WiFi router and use Internet through my phone, and provide Internet connections to other devices like h96max via mobile hotspot. Cast from phone does not work if mobile hotspot is on. So in the current setup, I am not able to cast from phone to h96max though I was able to do it once/twice. But that was only one/two time(s) and though I tried multiple times later, it did not work. Whatever may have worked would have been a kind of special set of steps and not the normal way of casting from phone to h96max. end-Update]
I tried some stuff without success, IFIRC.
...
Why Smart View forces you to switch off your mobile hotspot on the same phone:
Miracast (and by extension, features like Smart View) uses Wi-Fi Direct to establish a peer-to-peer connection between the sending device (your Samsung phone) and the receiving device (your H96Max running AirScreen).
- Wi-Fi Direct vs. Mobile Hotspot:
- When your phone is acting as a mobile hotspot, its Wi-Fi chip is primarily configured to broadcast an access point and share its cellular internet connection.
- When your phone is performing Miracast/Smart View screen mirroring, its Wi-Fi chip is configured to form a direct connection (Wi-Fi Direct) with another device for streaming video and audio.
- A single Wi-Fi chip typically cannot do both simultaneously. It cannot be an access point (hotspot) and establish a Wi-Fi Direct connection for Miracast at the exact same time. It's a hardware and software limitation.
This means your current setup has a conflict:
- Your H96Max needs Wi-Fi to connect to the internet (or at least a local network) to download apps and for AirScreen to function.
- Your mobile hotspot on the Samsung phone is providing that Wi-Fi network.
- But to mirror from that same Samsung phone via Smart View, you need to turn off the hotspot, which then disconnects the H96Max from the network.
Solutions and Workarounds for Screen Mirroring from Phone to H96Max:
Since you're using your phone as both the network source and the Miracast sender, you have a few options:
Option 1: Use a dedicated Wi-Fi Router/Separate Hotspot Device (Ideal but requires another device)
- If you have another Android phone or a dedicated mobile hotspot device: Use that device to create the Wi-Fi hotspot.
- Connect both your Samsung M21 and your H96Max to that separate hotspot.
- Now, your Samsung M21 is just a client on the network and can freely use Smart View to mirror to the H96Max (which is also a client on the same network). This is the cleanest solution for Miracast.
Option 2: Use AirDroid Cast (or similar app) with a USB Cable (Wired Option)
- This completely bypasses the Wi-Fi limitations for screen mirroring.
- Install AirDroid Cast on both your Samsung M21 and your H96Max.
- Connect your Samsung M21 to your H96Max using a USB cable (usually a USB-A to USB-C/micro-USB, depending on your phone's port).
- Follow the instructions within the AirDroid Cast app to initiate the wired connection. This often provides the most stable, lowest latency, and highest quality screen mirroring anyway.
- Benefit: Your mobile hotspot can remain active on your phone, providing internet to the H96Max and your other devices while you're mirroring.
Option 3: Use AirDroid Cast (or similar app) with Local Wi-Fi (Requires H96Max to connect to another Wi-Fi network)
- This is the wireless equivalent of Option 2, but still requires the H96Max to get internet from somewhere else.
- If you have a home Wi-Fi router, connect your H96Max to that network.
- Connect your Samsung M21 to that same Wi-Fi router.
- Install AirDroid Cast on both your Samsung M21 and your H96Max.
- Initiate a wireless connection within AirDroid Cast. This uses AirDroid Cast's own protocol over your existing Wi-Fi network.
- Benefit: Your mobile hotspot on your phone can stay off, and your H96Max still gets internet.
Option 4: Find a different receiver app that uses a different protocol (Less likely to resolve the core issue)
- While I recommended "WiFi-Display(miracast) sink" previously, if the core issue is your phone's Miracast/hotspot conflict, even that app on the H96Max won't overcome the phone's limitation.
- The only alternative would be a receiver app on the H96Max that uses a different protocol which can coexist with a mobile hotspot on the sender phone. This is very rare for direct screen mirroring.
Given your situation, I strongly recommend either:
- Getting a separate mobile hotspot device (if you need a dedicated internet source) OR
- Using AirDroid Cast with a USB cable to connect your phone directly to the H96Max for mirroring. This is often the most practical and reliable solution when a phone is doubling as a hotspot.
This is why your Windows 10 laptop could connect to your Windows 11 PC as a wireless display: neither of them was simultaneously acting as the hotspot for the other. They were both clients on a third network (your phone's hotspot).
A crucial point you made is: This is why your Windows 10 laptop could connect to your Windows 11 PC as a wireless display: neither of them was simultaneously acting as the hotspot for the other. They were both clients on a third network (your phone's hotspot).
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So if I set up a wired LAN connecting my desktop PC to H96Max, there may be a better chance of h96max acting as a wireless display to my desktop PC. It still may not be possible but the chances become better. Is my understanding right?
Gem: You are absolutely right in your understanding!
Yes, if you set up a wired LAN connection between your desktop PC and your H96Max, the chances of the H96Max acting as a wireless display for your desktop PC (using Miracast) become significantly better.
Here's why your understanding is spot on:
-
Miracast Over Infrastructure (MOLI):
- While traditional Miracast primarily relies on Wi-Fi Direct (a direct peer-to-peer connection that bypasses the router), Microsoft introduced a feature called "Miracast over Infrastructure" (MOLI) starting with Windows 10 (version 1703 and later, which applies to Windows 11).
- MOLI allows Miracast to work over an existing local network infrastructure, meaning it can leverage your Wi-Fi network or a wired Ethernet connection.
-
Addressing the Wi-Fi Direct/Hotspot Conflict:
- The core problem with your phone was the conflict of its single Wi-Fi chip trying to be both a hotspot and a Miracast sender/receiver via Wi-Fi Direct.
- When your desktop PC and H96Max are connected via a wired LAN (or even a shared Wi-Fi network provided by a dedicated router/hotspot), they are both simply clients on that network.
- This removes the Wi-Fi Direct conflict because the Miracast signal can (potentially) travel over the established network infrastructure.
How it would work with a Wired LAN:
- Desktop PC: Connect your Windows 11 desktop PC to your mobile hotspot (or a home router) via an Ethernet cable.
- H96Max: Connect your H96Max to the same network (your mobile hotspot or home router) via an Ethernet cable.
Now, both devices are on the same local network, and this network is not being hosted by either of them.
Why this improves chances, but still isn't a guarantee for the H96Max:
- Windows PC is a good Miracast Sender: Your Windows 11 desktop will act as a Miracast sender. It fully supports Miracast over Infrastructure.
- H96Max as a Miracast Receiver over Infrastructure: This is the key. For this to work, the Miracast receiver app on your H96Max (e.g., AirScreen, WiFi-Display sink, or its built-in receiver if it had one) needs to fully support receiving Miracast over Infrastructure.
- Many generic Android TV boxes, even if they claim Miracast support, often only truly implement the Wi-Fi Direct (peer-to-peer) version of Miracast, not the more complex "over Infrastructure" version.
- So, while the connection pathway is now viable, the software on the H96Max still needs to be capable of handling it.
In summary:
Your understanding is absolutely correct that setting up a wired LAN would provide the correct network environment for "Miracast over Infrastructure" to attempt to work. It removes the Wi-Fi direct conflict that was plaguing your phone setup.
The success will then hinge entirely on whether the Miracast receiver application or built-in functionality on your H96Max genuinely supports receiving Miracast over an existing network infrastructure (Ethernet or Wi-Fi), rather than just Wi-Fi Direct.
It's definitely worth trying, as it addresses a major technical hurdle!
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It's fantastic that you were able to get the Windows 11 DPC to Windows 10 DML wireless display connection working in Extend mode, and that you found it so useful for development and debugging. That's a perfect use case for this feature.
Now, let's address the concerning part: the "User Profile Service service failed the sign-in" error and the apparent profile corruption.
Analyzing the User Profile Issue
The "User Profile Service service failed the sign-in. User profile cannot be loaded" error is a classic Windows problem, and it's notoriously difficult to pinpoint the exact cause without deep system logs. However, based on your timeline:
-
The Suspect: You noted that "Allow mouse, keyboard and other input from this device" was the only new thing you did before the problems started. This is a very strong suspect.
- This Miracast feature enables your DPC (the receiver) to accept input from the DML (the sender) when it's projecting. While it should be a benign feature, any bug in its implementation that tries to hook into core input services or user session management could potentially interfere with how Windows loads or unloads your user profile.
- It's a less commonly used aspect of Miracast receiving, and it's plausible there's an edge case bug, especially with rapid connect/disconnects or if the connection wasn't cleanly terminated.
-
Symptoms of Profile Corruption: Losing desktop icons, font settings, dark mode, taskbar shortcuts, Quick Access, and default app associations are all classic signs that Windows either:
- Loaded a temporary profile: This happens when your main profile can't be loaded, so Windows logs you into a temporary one. Any changes made are lost, and it looks like a "new user."
- Had its profile registry hive corrupted: The
NTUSER.DATfile you mentioned is essentially a small registry file that stores all your specific user settings. Corruption here can lead to the symptoms you described.
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Your Recovery Steps:
- Logging into Safe Mode and seeing your profile correctly is a good sign, as Safe Mode loads a minimal set of drivers and services, often bypassing conflicts.
- Restarting services (like the User Profile Service itself) is a standard troubleshooting step.
- Hard restarting and then managing to log in correctly later (even after an initial "personalize" message) means Windows likely performed some self-healing, or the problematic state that was preventing the profile load cleared.
What to Do Moving Forward (and Preventing Recurrence)
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Avoid "Allow mouse, keyboard and other input from this device" for now:
- Until you have more stability, I highly recommend keeping this option disabled in the "Projecting to this PC" settings on your DPC.
- Test the wireless display functionality without it. If the connection and disconnection process becomes stable, then you can try enabling it again very cautiously, but it appears to be the most likely trigger.
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Monitor Your Profile:
- Keep an eye on your user profile's behavior. If you experience repeated issues, it might indicate underlying corruption that hasn't been fully resolved.
- Your backup of
NTUSER.DATis a good idea! If the problem recurs, you'll have a point to revert to.
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Regular Restarts vs. Shutdowns:
- When you're done with a session, especially after using wireless display, always try to use "Restart" from the Start Menu (
Power->Restart) instead of "Shutdown." - "Restart" performs a fuller system reset and flushes more temporary data than "Shutdown" (due to Windows' Fast Startup feature, which can sometimes preserve problematic states).
- When you're done with a session, especially after using wireless display, always try to use "Restart" from the Start Menu (
-
Keep Windows Updated:
- Ensure your Windows 11 DPC and Windows 10 DML are fully updated. Microsoft frequently releases fixes for stability and Miracast. You already experienced a cumulative update download, which is good.
-
Check System Files:
- It's always a good idea to periodically run the System File Checker (SFC) and Deployment Image Servicing and Management (DISM) tools to check for and repair any corrupted system files. You mentioned trying this before, but it's a good preventative measure.
- Open Command Prompt as Administrator.
sfc /scannowDISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth- Restart your PC after running these.
- It's always a good idea to periodically run the System File Checker (SFC) and Deployment Image Servicing and Management (DISM) tools to check for and repair any corrupted system files. You mentioned trying this before, but it's a good preventative measure.
Regarding your specific experience:
- Safe Mode: Yes, Safe Mode procedures have become a bit more involved in modern Windows versions. The shift+restart method to get to the recovery environment is the primary way now.
- Fixing itself: Windows sometimes manages to self-repair minor profile inconsistencies on reboot. The "personalize" message could have been part of Windows rebuilding cached profile data.
It sounds like you're through the worst of it for now, which is a relief. The ability to use your DML as a wireless extended display for development is a fantastic workflow enhancement. Just be cautious with that "Allow mouse, keyboard, and other input" option for a while!
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I shared DPC and DML config info. with Gem. It gave a detailed analysis of it for the wireless display usage. WiFi dongle on DPC could be a bottleneck ...
Gem: What this means for your DPC to DML wireless display experience:
- Potential Bottleneck: Your TP-Link TL-WN725N is a significant potential bottleneck for your wireless display performance. Even though your DPC has a powerful CPU/iGPU, if the Wi-Fi adapter can't handle the bandwidth and low-latency requirements of Miracast, it will suffer.
- 2.4 GHz Interference: The 2.4 GHz band is often crowded, especially in residential areas in India. This interference can cause packet loss, leading to visible stuttering, blocky video, and increased latency on the DML.
- Wi-Fi Direct Support: The primary way Miracast works is via Wi-Fi Direct. While Windows can do MOLI, the underlying Wi-Fi adapter needs robust Wi-Fi Direct support for both modes to work optimally. Older, simpler dongles like the TL-WN725N might have limited or problematic Wi-Fi Direct implementation, if any at all for sending Miracast streams from the PC.
Recommendation:
If you plan to use wireless display frequently from your DPC, upgrading your DPC's Wi-Fi dongle would be the single most impactful upgrade for stability and performance. Look for a dual-band (2.4 GHz and 5 GHz) Wi-Fi 5 (802.11ac) or Wi-Fi 6 (802.11ax) USB adapter. These adapters are designed for higher throughput and better support the underlying technologies that Miracast relies upon.
While your DML's older Celeron is also a factor, a better Wi-Fi connection on the DPC would ensure it's receiving the best possible signal, minimizing issues originating from the sender.
Me: Awesome input. I did face one or two disconnects in my limited DPC - DML as Wireless display testing. Performance wise as there was no other load on DML, it did quite a good job. If disconnects become an issue or I face some major performance issue, I will bear in mind that WiFi is what I should focus on and try to improve that with better dongle(s). [I could add a higher spec. dongle to DML too, if I felt that it is worth it.]
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Me: Now I want to compare this with the possibility of using USB to HDMI adapter on my DPC and directly connect the 15.4 inch monitor to it. With the earlier DPC-DML setup, we have a computer (DML) which will handle some/most/all of the work for displaying the extended monitor data.
But in the USB to HDMI adapter on DPC case, while there is an advantage of bigger monitor than the 11.6 inch monitor of DML, I guess that the processing load on DPC will be higher and so there could be performance issues. Am I right?
Gem: You're asking a great question that gets to the heart of how different display technologies work and their performance implications!
You are absolutely correct that using a USB to HDMI adapter with a directly connected monitor will shift the processing load differently compared to the Miracast (DPC-DML wireless display) setup. And yes, it will generally be a higher processing load on the DPC for a USB to HDMI adapter, but it often results in better performance for the end user in terms of latency and visual quality compared to wireless display.
Let's break down why:
USB to HDMI Adapter (Directly Connected Monitor)
How it Works:
- These adapters essentially contain a small, dedicated graphics chip (often from companies like DisplayLink or Silicon Motion).
- Your DPC's CPU and existing GPU (the Intel UHD Graphics 730) render the display data, just like for your primary monitor.
- Instead of sending this data to your PC's built-in video ports, the USB to HDMI adapter's driver captures this rendered display data from your Windows display buffer.
- This data is then compressed (usually lightly, or in a way that minimizes visual loss) and sent over the USB cable to the adapter.
- The small graphics chip inside the adapter then decompresses the data and outputs it as a standard HDMI signal to your 15.4-inch monitor.
Processing Load on DPC:
- Yes, it's higher than for a standard direct HDMI/DisplayPort connection. Your DPC's CPU and GPU still do the rendering. The additional load comes from the compression and USB transmission overhead managed by the adapter's driver software on the DPC.
- The CPU will be involved in preparing the data for the USB adapter, and there's some overhead for the USB bus itself.
- However, for modern CPUs like your i3-12100 with its capable integrated graphics (UHD Graphics 730), this additional load is generally very manageable for typical desktop use, web Browse, and even video playback. You're unlikely to see significant performance issues or slowdowns on your DPC itself due to this.
Performance Characteristics:
- Latency: Much lower than Miracast.
Because it's a wired connection with a relatively simple compression/decompression pipeline, the delay between what's on your DPC's main screen and what appears on the USB-connected screen is minimal, often imperceptible for general use. - Visual Quality: Generally excellent. The compression used is typically designed to preserve visual fidelity, and you're not dealing with the wireless interference and packet loss that can plague Miracast. You'll get crisp text and smooth video.
- Reliability: Extremely high. Wired connections are inherently more stable than wireless ones.
You won't face disconnects due to Wi-Fi interference or signal strength issues.
Miracast (DPC -> DML Wireless Display)
How it Works:
- Your DPC's CPU/GPU renders the display data.
- This data is then heavily compressed (using codecs like H.264, which is demanding) and encapsulated for wireless transmission.
- It's sent wirelessly over Wi-Fi Direct (or Miracast over Infrastructure) to the DML.
- The DML's CPU/GPU (Celeron 2955U) then decompresses this stream and displays it.
Processing Load:
- DPC (Sender): High load for real-time video encoding (H.264 compression). While your i3-12100 is great at this, it's still a significant task.
- DML (Receiver): High load for real-time video decoding. This is where your DML's older Celeron can be the bottleneck, struggling to keep up, even if there's no other load.
Performance Characteristics:
- Latency: Inherently higher than wired connections. Even in good conditions, there's a noticeable delay (often 50-200ms or more), making fast-paced gaming or precise cursor movements feel less responsive. You observed this yourself.
- Visual Quality: Can vary. Compression artifacts (blockiness), dropped frames, and resolution scaling issues are more common, especially with fast-moving content or a noisy wireless environment.
- Reliability: Highly dependent on Wi-Fi signal quality, interference, and the robustness of both the sender and receiver's Miracast implementation (including Wi-Fi drivers).
Disconnects are possible.
Comparison Summary:
Conclusion to your question:
You are correct that using a USB to HDMI adapter will put a higher processing load on your DPC (specifically, the CPU and possibly USB controller for the compression and transmission).
However, this increased load on your powerful DPC (Intel i3-12100) is likely to result in a better and more stable user experience for the extended display. The load is well within your DPC's capabilities for typical extended desktop use, and you gain significant advantages in latency, visual quality, and reliability by going wired.
The "performance issues" you might anticipate with the USB to HDMI adapter are far less likely with your modern DPC than the performance issues (latency, stutter, disconnects) you've already experienced or might experience with the wireless Miracast to an older, lower-spec receiver.
Me: That's a fascinating explanation. I think it is clear from your explanation that while I can start experimenting with dual monitor usage with DPC-DML using Wireless Display, if I feel a strong and regular need for dual monitor for my React Native and Expo development work then I should seriously consider trying out a USB 3.0 to HDMI adapter on DPC and connect it to my 15.4 inch monitor. While I may not buy it right away, just to get an idea, here's one such adapter: KUPOISHE Usb To Hdmi Adapter For Monitor Windows 11 / 10 / 8, Hdmi Usb Converter For Laptop Mac Macbook Pro, Usb 3.0 Usb 2.0 Hdmi Cable Multiple Monitors For Desktop Pc Tv, https://www.amazon.in/Adapter-Monitor-Converter-Multiple-Monitors/dp/B0B6PC8NZJ/ . It costs Rs.570 and can be returned if there is a problem within a week. What do you think of this option?
Gem indicated it may work OK but it is generic and somebody has reported driver issues as well as virus issue with it! Another slightly higher cost product was also viewed as generic by Gem. Then Gem suggested UGreen. I could not get it on amazon India but got it in UGreeen India. Ugreen 15cm USB 3.0 To 1080p HDMI + VGA Converter, Aluminum Case(20518), https://www.ugreenindia.com/products/ugreen-15cm-usb-3-0-to-1080p-hdmi-vga-converter-aluminum-case20518 , Rs 2499. Gem felt this was a reasonable choice.
==================
Me: Tried out a variation of DPC-DML wireless display for 2nd monitor for DPC. I connected the 15.4 inch monitor to DML with HDMI cable and selected display only on 2 in DML multiple displays setting. So now DML display is shown only on 15.4 inch monitor. Then I set up DML as wireless display to which DPC connected to and used as 2nd monitor. The 2nd monitor display showed on the 15.4 inch monitor (DML monitor is black/like being switched off). I repeated the same test of VSCode running on DPC monitor and Timestamp Tracker (RN and Expo) project's web and android app being shown on 2nd monitor. this time I had both app windows open simultaneously on 2nd monitor. It worked very well. So far no disconnect issues as well.
Gem: That's fantastic news! This is a very clever and effective setup.
What you've essentially done is offload the primary display responsibility of the Miracast receiver (the DML) from its smaller built-in screen to your larger 15.4-inch monitor.
Let's break down why this is working well and what it means:
-
DML's Role Optimization:
- By setting "display only on 2" (the 15.4-inch monitor connected via HDMI), you're telling the DML to dedicate its internal graphics and video output hardware solely to driving that larger external screen. This means the DML's limited CPU (Celeron 2955U) and GPU (Intel HD Graphics) are not trying to simultaneously render to its small built-in screen and handle the incoming Miracast stream for a second output.
- The DML is still acting as the Miracast receiver, decoding the H.264 stream from the DPC. But now, that decoded stream is being directly displayed on the 15.4-inch monitor, which is a native HDMI connection, the most efficient way for the DML to output video.
-
Benefits of this Configuration:
- Larger, More Usable Display: You get the benefit of the 15.4-inch screen, which is much better for your development workflow.
- Potential Performance Improvement (on DML side): By deactivating the DML's internal screen, you might reduce some overhead on the DML's graphics system. This might free up just enough resources for smoother decoding and display on the external monitor.
- Reduced Jitter/Artifacts: HDMI is a direct, wired connection. So, once the DML successfully decodes the Miracast stream, displaying it on the 15.4-inch monitor via HDMI will be much cleaner and more stable than if the DML was trying to display it on its own potentially lower-quality or slightly lagged internal panel.
- Still Wireless Convenience: You still get the core benefit of wireless display for the connection between your DPC and the DML, avoiding a long cable run from your DPC to the monitor.
-
Why it's Working "Very Well" with Both App Windows:
- Your DPC (i3-12100 with UHD Graphics 730) is still doing the heavy lifting of encoding the video stream for both app windows simultaneously. It's powerful enough for this.
- The DML, though older, is likely managing the decoding task sufficiently when its output is routed cleanly to the external HDMI monitor. The relatively small resolution of the DML's native screen (and likely the resolution it's sending to the 15.4-inch monitor) also helps keep the decoding load manageable.
This setup ingeniously leverages the strengths of each component:
- DPC: Strong encoding power.
- DML: Acts as a wireless bridge/decoder, and its ability to output reliably to an external HDMI monitor.
- 15.4-inch Monitor: Provides the desired screen real estate.
The key is that the bottleneck of the DML's internal display and its potential interaction with Miracast decoding has been bypassed by having the DML output directly to the more capable 15.4-inch monitor.
This is an excellent workaround! If it continues to provide a stable experience with no disconnects, it might negate the immediate need for a USB 3.0 to HDMI adapter, at least for this specific purpose. You've found a way to make your existing hardware work very effectively for your use case.
----
But somebody will have to do the Miracast decoding isn't it? R u saying the monitor does the decoding?
Gem: You've hit on a very important clarification point, and you're absolutely right to question that! My previous phrasing was imprecise and could easily lead to a misunderstanding.
You are correct: the 15.4-inch monitor does NOT do the Miracast decoding. A monitor is typically a display device; it receives a standard video signal (like HDMI) and shows it. It doesn't have the processing power or software to decompress a Miracast stream.
Let me clarify what I meant:
The DML (Dell Mini Laptop) is still doing all the Miracast decoding.
Here's the corrected and more precise explanation:
- DPC (Desktop PC) is the Miracast Sender: It encodes the display data into an H.264 video stream and sends it wirelessly.
- DML (Dell Mini Laptop) is the Miracast Receiver: It receives that wireless H.264 stream and decodes it back into a standard video signal (e.g., an internal display buffer that then converts to HDMI). This decoding process is the most CPU/GPU intensive part on the receiver side.
- 15.4-inch Monitor: This monitor is connected to the DML via a standard HDMI cable. It receives a pure, uncompressed HDMI video signal from the DML. It's just a display, not a decoder.
What was "bypassed" (and why it might improve performance):
My imprecise phrasing of "bypassed the bottleneck of the DML's internal display" meant that the DML no longer has to:
- Simultaneously drive its internal LCD panel AND convert the decoded Miracast stream into a format for an external display. While modern GPUs can handle multiple outputs, for a very low-power system like the DML with its older Celeron, doing both can add noticeable overhead.
- Deal with any potential conflicts or performance issues specific to its internal display controller. Sometimes, the internal display's refresh rate, resolution, or driver can interact poorly with the demands of a high-bandwidth, real-time Miracast stream. By telling the DML to "display only on 2" (the HDMI-connected 15.4-inch monitor), you're streamlining its video output path. It's dedicating its (limited) resources to only one output path for the decoded Miracast stream.
So, the DML is still fully responsible for decoding the Miracast stream. However, by disabling its internal display and routing that decoded output directly to the 15.4-inch monitor via HDMI, you're potentially:
- Reducing overhead on the DML's GPU: Less work for its integrated graphics.
- Ensuring a cleaner output path: The HDMI connection to the 15.4-inch monitor is the most efficient and least problematic way for the DML to present a video signal once it's decoded.
This leads to a more efficient use of the DML's resources for the final display of the Miracast content, which translates to a smoother experience for you.
===================
Me: So far I am still connected to DML Ext. monitor over wireless display. But if I make this connection btw DPC and DML a wired Ethernet one then I increase the stability of the connection. Now I have an old Netgear WGR614v9 bought in 2009 for Wireless BSNL Broadband Internet Access. I dug up the online manual link now: https://www.downloads.netgear.com/files/GDC/WGR614V9/WGR614v9_SM_26Oct07.pdf . Can I use this as a router to connect DPC and DML (without any broadband Internet access cable going to WAN port)?
Gem: You're on to a very good idea! Improving the connection between your DPC and DML from Wi-Fi to wired Ethernet for Miracast over Infrastructure can indeed significantly increase stability and potentially reduce latency/disconnects.
Let's break down if and how your old Netgear WGR614v9 router can facilitate this.
Can the Netgear WGR614v9 be used as a router to connect DPC and DML for Miracast over Infrastructure?
Yes, absolutely! You can use your Netgear WGR614v9 as a local network switch/router for your DPC and DML, even without an internet connection to its WAN port. This is a common and effective way to utilize an old router.
Here's how and why:
Your WGR614v9 router has a built-in 4-port 10/100 Mbps Ethernet switch on its LAN side. This means it can connect up to four wired devices locally.
Steps to set it up (as a local switch/access point for Miracast over Infrastructure):
The goal is to turn off its routing/DHCP server functions to avoid conflicts if you already have a main router for your home internet. If this Netgear will be the only network device, you can leave DHCP on, but for simplicity and to avoid future issues, I'd still recommend disabling it if you have another router.
-
Factory Reset (Recommended):
- With the router powered on, use a paperclip or a thin object to press and hold the small recessed "Reset" button on the back of the router for about 10-15 seconds. The lights should flash, indicating it's resetting.
- This will revert all settings to factory defaults (e.g., default IP 192.168.1.1, admin/password credentials). This makes configuration easier and avoids any old settings interfering.
-
Connect a PC for Configuration:
- Connect your DPC (or any other computer) directly to one of the LAN ports (1, 2, 3, or 4) on the WGR614v9 using an Ethernet cable. Do NOT use the WAN/Internet port for this setup.
- Ensure your DPC is set to obtain an IP address automatically (which is usually the default).
-
Access Router Settings:
- Open a web browser on your DPC.
- Type the router's default IP address (usually
192.168.1.1orrouterlogin.net) into the address bar and press Enter. - Log in using the default username and password (usually
adminfor both). (Refer to the manual or a sticker on the router if you're unsure).
-
Configure Router as a Switch/Access Point:
- Disable DHCP Server: This is the most crucial step. You don't want this router assigning IP addresses if you already have another router doing that, or if you want static IPs.
- Navigate to "LAN IP Setup" or "DHCP Server" settings.
- Find the option to "Disable DHCP Server" and save the setting.
- Change Router's LAN IP Address (Optional but Recommended):
- If your main home network uses 192.168.1.x, you should change this old router's IP to something else within that subnet but outside your main router's DHCP range (e.g., if your main router is 192.168.1.1 and its DHCP range is 192.168.1.100-192.168.1.200, you could set this router to
192.168.1.2or192.168.1.254). This prevents IP conflicts. If this is truly a standalone network just for DPC-DML, this step is less critical but still good practice. - The manual says "LAN IP Setup" is under "Basic Settings" then "LAN IP Setup" then "IP Address".
- If your main home network uses 192.168.1.x, you should change this old router's IP to something else within that subnet but outside your main router's DHCP range (e.g., if your main router is 192.168.1.1 and its DHCP range is 192.168.1.100-192.168.1.200, you could set this router to
- Disable Wireless (Optional but Recommended): Since you're aiming for a wired connection, you can disable the Wi-Fi on the WGR614v9 to reduce interference and potential security vulnerabilities from an old wireless standard (802.11g).
- Look for "Wireless Settings" or "Wireless Setup" and find an option to disable the wireless radio/functionality.
- Disable WAN/Internet Connection Detection (Less critical): Sometimes routers have a "smart" WAN detection that can cause issues if nothing is plugged into WAN. This Netgear might not have explicit settings for this, but by disabling DHCP and not using the WAN port, you're effectively making it function as a simple switch.
- Save Settings: Apply/Save all your changes. The router may reboot.
- Disable DHCP Server: This is the most crucial step. You don't want this router assigning IP addresses if you already have another router doing that, or if you want static IPs.
-
Connect DPC and DML:
- Now, connect an Ethernet cable from a LAN port (1-4) on your WGR614v9 to your DPC's Ethernet port.
- Connect another Ethernet cable from a different LAN port (1-4) on your WGR614v9 to your DML's Ethernet port.
Implications for Miracast over Infrastructure:
- Miracast over Infrastructure (MoI): This is precisely what you need! Windows supports Miracast over existing network infrastructure (Wi-Fi or Ethernet) as an alternative to Wi-Fi Direct (the default peer-to-peer Miracast).
- Requirements for MoI (which your setup will meet):
- Both DPC (sender) and DML (receiver) must be on the same local network segment. Your Netgear router, acting as a switch, will create this segment.
- Both devices need to have Wi-Fi enabled for the initial discovery phase (even if the actual video stream goes over Ethernet). This is a quirk of MoI.
- Windows 10/11 is required for MoI.
- Firewall rules may need to allow TCP port 7250 and UDP port 5353 (mDNS) if you run into issues, but usually, default Windows firewall settings are permissive enough for local network Miracast.
Advantages of this Wired Setup:
- Significantly Increased Stability: Ethernet is far more stable and less prone to interference than Wi-Fi, especially older Wi-Fi G. This should reduce disconnects and jitter.
- Lower Latency: Wired connections generally have lower latency, which could make your developer experience smoother with less perceived lag on the secondary display.
- Dedicated Bandwidth: The 100 Mbps Ethernet connection is dedicated to just the DPC-DML link (and whatever else you connect), which is ample for a 1080p Miracast stream.
- Reduced Wi-Fi Congestion: Frees up your main Wi-Fi network for other devices if you were using it for Miracast previously.
Potential Considerations:
- 10/100 Mbps Ethernet: The WGR614v9 only has 10/100 Mbps Ethernet ports, not Gigabit Ethernet (1000 Mbps). For a 1080p Miracast stream, 100 Mbps is perfectly adequate. You won't notice a difference in Miracast performance between 100 Mbps and 1000 Mbps for this specific use case.
- Age of the Router: While it should function perfectly as a simple switch, keep in mind its age. Components can fail over time. However, for a simple wired connection, it's quite reliable.
- Physical Cables: You'll need two Ethernet cables to connect the DPC and DML to the Netgear router.
This is a very viable and recommended approach to improve your Miracast experience. Give it a try!
Me: I do not have a home network. I use my Samsung M21 mobile hotspot as the Internet access point which I will want to continue to use both on DPC and DML over WiFi. The only other main network will be the NetGear WGR614v9 router providing wired Ethernet LAN connecting itself, DPC and DML.
Gem: This is an excellent detail to clarify, as it affects how you configure your Netgear router and how your devices handle their network connections!
You want your DPC and DML to simultaneously maintain:
- Internet Access: Via your Samsung M21 mobile hotspot (Wi-Fi).
- Local Network for Miracast: Via the wired Ethernet connection through the Netgear WGR614v9 router.
Good News: This setup is achievable and is actually the ideal scenario for Miracast over Infrastructure (MoI) when you want the stability of Ethernet for the display. Windows 10/11 handles this very well with its network stack.
Here's how to ensure it works, focusing on the Netgear router setup and network behavior:
Netgear WGR614v9 Router Setup (as a "Dumb" Ethernet Switch/Local LAN)
The steps from before still apply, but with a crucial emphasis on disabling DHCP and ensuring a distinct local IP range:
-
Factory Reset the WGR614v9: (As discussed before) Press and hold the reset button for 10-15 seconds.
-
Connect a PC for Configuration: Connect your DPC (or any other PC) to one of the LAN ports (1-4) of the WGR614v9.
-
Access Router Settings: Log in via
192.168.1.1(default IP for WGR614v9) withadmin/password. -
Crucial Configuration Steps:
-
Disable DHCP Server: This is paramount. You do not want the Netgear router trying to hand out IP addresses. Your Samsung M21 hotspot will handle DHCP for your internet connection. For the wired LAN, you'll either assign static IPs manually (recommended for simplicity in this isolated setup) or rely on Automatic Private IP Addressing (APIPA) if devices can't get an IP.
- Navigate to "LAN IP Setup" or "DHCP Server" and "Disable DHCP Server." Save/Apply.
-
Change the Router's LAN IP Address (VERY IMPORTANT):
- Since your Samsung M21 hotspot will likely give out IP addresses in the
192.168.x.xrange (e.g.,192.168.43.x), you need to ensure the Netgear router's own IP address is NOT in the same subnet as your mobile hotspot's IP range. - Identify your mobile hotspot's IP range: Connect your DPC to your M21 hotspot via Wi-Fi. Open Command Prompt (
cmd) and typeipconfig. Look for your Wi-Fi adapter's IPv4 address and default gateway. Let's say your hotspot gives you192.168.43.100and its gateway is192.168.43.1. This means its subnet is192.168.43.x. - Change Netgear's IP: Go back to the Netgear router's "LAN IP Setup" and change its IP address. A common strategy for an isolated LAN like this is to use a completely different private IP range.
- Suggestion: Change the Netgear's LAN IP to something like
10.0.0.1or172.16.0.1. - Subnet Mask: Leave it as
255.255.255.0. - Save/Apply. The router will reboot, and you'll lose connection to its web interface. This is expected because your DPC is still on the
192.168.1.xnetwork (or whatever its previous IP was).
- Suggestion: Change the Netgear's LAN IP to something like
- Since your Samsung M21 hotspot will likely give out IP addresses in the
-
Disable Wireless (Optional but Recommended): You're using your phone for Wi-Fi. Turn off the Wi-Fi on the old Netgear to avoid interference and unnecessary power consumption. Look for "Wireless Settings" and disable the radio.
-
Leave WAN Port Unconnected: Do not plug anything into the yellow "Internet" (WAN) port.
-
-
Connect DPC and DML to Netgear LAN Ports:
- Connect Ethernet cables from both your DPC and DML to any of the blue LAN ports (1-4) on the Netgear router.
Network Behavior on DPC and DML (Crucial for Simultaneous Operation)
This is where Windows' ability to handle multiple network adapters comes in.
-
Internet Access (Wi-Fi):
- Both DPC and DML will connect to your Samsung M21 hotspot via Wi-Fi.
- They will get IP addresses from your M21 hotspot's DHCP server (e.g.,
192.168.43.x). - This Wi-Fi connection will be their primary route for internet access.
-
Local Network (Ethernet for Miracast):
- When you connect DPC and DML to the Netgear router (with DHCP disabled and its own IP in a different range, e.g.,
10.0.0.1), they won't get an IP address from the Netgear. - Windows will use Automatic Private IP Addressing (APIPA) for their Ethernet connections. This means they will self-assign IP addresses in the
169.254.x.xrange (e.g.,169.254.10.25,169.254.20.100). - This is perfectly fine for a local, isolated network segment. Devices on the same
169.254.x.xsubnet can communicate with each other.
- When you connect DPC and DML to the Netgear router (with DHCP disabled and its own IP in a different range, e.g.,
-
Miracast over Infrastructure (MoI) and Multi-Homing:
- Microsoft's MoI is designed to work in scenarios like this. When you attempt to connect to a wireless display, Windows will first use your Wi-Fi adapter for discovery (sending out Miracast beacons).
- Once the DML (receiver) is discovered, Windows will realize that both the DPC (sender) and DML (receiver) are on the same local network (your Netgear's Ethernet segment via their
169.254.x.xIPs). - Windows is smart enough to prioritize the wired Ethernet connection for the actual Miracast video stream if it detects that both devices are connected to the same infrastructure network via Ethernet, even if they also have Wi-Fi connections. This is called "multi-homing."
- Crucial requirement for MoI: Both sender (DPC) and receiver (DML) must have their Wi-Fi adapters enabled for the initial discovery phase, even if the data transfer shifts to Ethernet.
- The system will use the Ethernet connection (
169.254.x.x) for the high-bandwidth video stream, while simultaneously using the Wi-Fi connection (to your mobile hotspot) for internet access.
In summary:
This setup is definitely viable and will likely provide the most stable Miracast experience possible with your existing hardware. The key is to correctly configure your Netgear WGR614v9 as a simple switch with DHCP disabled and a distinct IP range so it acts as an isolated local network for your two devices, allowing your mobile hotspot to continue providing internet over Wi-Fi.
========================
Here's the breakdown of what's happening and why you don't see it directly on your DPC:
What is "DIRECT-rMRAVImsZh"?
- Wi-Fi Direct: This is the underlying technology that Miracast uses for a peer-to-peer connection. Unlike traditional Wi-Fi which requires an access point (like your mobile hotspot or a router), Wi-Fi Direct allows devices to connect directly to each other without an intermediary.
- Miracast: This is a standard built upon Wi-Fi Direct that allows for wireless screen mirroring.
- "DIRECT-rMRAVImsZh" is your DPC's Wi-Fi Direct "soft AP" (Access Point) name for Miracast. When your Windows 11 DPC makes itself discoverable as a Miracast sender/source, it creates a virtual Wi-Fi Direct network. The name typically starts with "DIRECT-" followed by some random alphanumeric characters, often incorporating a part of the device's name or a unique identifier. This is how other Miracast-compatible devices (like your H96Max) "see" your DPC for a direct connection.
This confirms what we discussed about Android's support for Miracast and generic TV boxes:
-
Android OS Limitation: The message "Your operating system does not allow this function to be enabled" is the key. This strongly indicates that the underlying Android version or the specific firmware build on your H96Max (even though it's running AirScreen, which tries to be a universal receiver) either:
- Lacks the necessary Miracast framework components that Google removed from stock Android starting with version 6.0, which many generic boxes do not re-implement.
- Has a heavily customized/stripped-down kernel that doesn't properly expose the Wi-Fi Direct capabilities required for compliant Miracast receiving to the AirScreen app or any other receiving application.
-
AirScreen's Role: AirScreen is a very capable multi-protocol casting app. It tries to be a receiver for AirPlay (Apple), Google Cast (Chromecast), DLNA, and sometimes Miracast. However, if the underlying operating system of the device (your H96Max's Android firmware) doesn't provide the necessary hooks or support for a particular protocol, even AirScreen cannot enable it. It's essentially saying, "I want to do Miracast, but the Android system on this box won't let me."
-
Why DPC isn't seeing H96Max: Because the H96Max's Android OS is preventing its Miracast receiver functionality from being enabled, it's not advertising itself as a Miracast sink (receiver) in a way that your Windows 11 DPC can discover. The "DIRECT-rMRAVImsZh" network you saw earlier is from your DPC (which can send Miracast), not from the H96Max trying to receive.
In essence: Your H96Max cannot be a Miracast receiver for your Windows 11 PC because its own Android operating system/firmware actively disables or lacks the necessary Miracast functionality.
Me: Hmm. So at the Android OS level itself, H96Max lacks the ability to connect to Windows 11 Wireless Display networking software. Did I get that right? If so, then no matter what Android app I try, the H96Max will not be able to act as Wireless Display for Windows 11 PC (DPC)?
Gem: You've got it absolutely right! Your understanding is spot on.
When AirScreen (a well-known, multi-protocol casting app) reports "Your operating system does not allow this function to be enabled" specifically for Miracast, it means:
Yes, at the Android OS level itself, your H96Max lacks the necessary framework and support to act as a Miracast receiver for a Windows 11 PC (or any Miracast sender).
This isn't about AirScreen's capabilities; it's about the fundamental foundation that AirScreen needs to operate Miracast. If the Android version/firmware on your H96Max has had those Miracast components stripped out or never fully implemented (which, as discussed, is common since Google pivoted to Google Cast/Chromecast), then no application, no matter how good, can enable that functionality.
Therefore, you are correct:
No matter what Android app you try, the H96Max will not be able to act as a Wireless Display (Miracast receiver) for your Windows 11 PC (DPC).
The app is simply reflecting a hard limitation imposed by the device's operating system. Think of it like a car without an engine; no matter how good the navigation app is, it can't make the car drive. The Android OS on your H96Max simply doesn't have the "engine" for Miracast receiving.
It's a definitive "no" for Miracast with that H96Max. Your Dell Mini Laptop (DML) remains the viable option for wireless display from your DPC.
Me: Just to confirm: Even if we run a wired Ethernet link from DPC to H96Max via the Netgear router, due to this Android OS on H96Max limitation, Wireless Display possibility will not work. also adding a bluetooth link from DPC to H96Max will not help for the Wireless Display possibiilty.
Gem: You are absolutely correct with both confirmations!
-
Wired Ethernet (Miracast over Infrastructure) and H96Max: Even if you run a wired Ethernet link from your DPC to the H96Max via the Netgear router, the Wireless Display (Miracast) functionality will still NOT work as a receiver on the H96Max.
- Reason: The limitation is at the fundamental Android OS/firmware level on the H96Max, which explicitly states that Miracast cannot be enabled. Miracast over Infrastructure (MoI) is still Miracast; it just uses the existing wired/wireless network for the high-bandwidth video stream after the initial discovery. If the core Miracast receiving capability is missing or disabled in the H96Max's OS, neither Wi-Fi Direct Miracast nor MoI will function. The network connection type (wired vs. wireless) only changes the transport for the Miracast stream, not the underlying Miracast protocol support.
-
Bluetooth Link and Wireless Display: Adding a Bluetooth link from DPC to H96Max will not help for the purpose of Wireless Display (screen mirroring).
- Reason: Bluetooth's bandwidth is far too low for real-time video streaming of a display. It's designed for low-data tasks like audio streaming (headphones, speakers), file transfer of small files, and connecting peripherals (keyboards, mice).
- Screen mirroring requires a high-bandwidth connection to transfer video frames and audio in real-time, which is why Miracast (and other technologies like AirPlay and Google Cast) rely on Wi-Fi (Wi-Fi Direct or Wi-Fi infrastructure) due to its much higher data rates.
While some devices might use Bluetooth for initial discovery or control signals in some niche screen-sharing scenarios, it's never the primary data transport for display mirroring.
- Reason: Bluetooth's bandwidth is far too low for real-time video streaming of a display. It's designed for low-data tasks like audio streaming (headphones, speakers), file transfer of small files, and connecting peripherals (keyboards, mice).
To summarize:
Your H96Max is fundamentally limited in its ability to act as a Miracast receiver by its own operating system/firmware. No changes to the network connection type (wired Ethernet) or adding Bluetooth will overcome this core software/hardware limitation for Miracast functionality.
Your DML remains the only viable option for Miracast from your DPC.
Me: Will functionality like h96Max acting as a sender of app content to DPC for display on DPC screen work?
Gem: This is an interesting reversal of roles, and the answer is no, not directly or easily, especially not using native Wireless Display/Miracast technology.
Here's why H96Max acting as a sender of app content to your DPC for display on the DPC screen typically won't work:
-
Windows 11 as a Miracast Receiver:
- While Windows 11 PCs can be Miracast receivers, this functionality is specifically for receiving Miracast streams from other Windows PCs or Android devices that fully support Miracast sending.
- As we've established, your H96Max's Android OS has Miracast disabled as a receiver. The same underlying limitation often applies to its ability to send a Miracast stream in a compliant way that Windows expects.
- Most generic Android TV boxes prioritize being a receiver for casting from phones (e.g., using Google Cast, AirPlay, DLNA via pre-installed apps). They are generally not designed to be Miracast senders in the way a phone or a Windows laptop is.
-
Android TV Box Ecosystem vs. PC Ecosystem:
- Android TV boxes are usually designed to push content to a TV/monitor (via HDMI) or receive content from phones/tablets.
- Windows PCs are generally designed to display content or send content to external displays (like your DML + monitor setup).
- There isn't a native, widely supported protocol for an Android TV box to "mirror" its own interface or apps directly onto a Windows PC screen using built-in Windows features.
-
Alternative (Indirect) Methods (and why they're not ideal for app content):
- USB Capture Card: The most reliable way to get any HDMI output (including from an H96Max) onto a PC screen is using a USB video capture card. You'd connect an HDMI cable from the H96Max to the capture card, and the capture card to your DPC via USB. The DPC would then run software (like VLC, OBS Studio, or the capture card's proprietary software) to display the incoming video feed.
- Pros: Reliable, low latency for display.
- Cons: Requires additional hardware (capture card), adds physical clutter, doesn't allow direct interaction with the Android box's UI from your DPC's mouse/keyboard (you'd still need the H96Max's remote). This is essentially treating your DPC monitor as another external display, not a true "mirroring" or "casting" experience.
- Third-Party Casting Apps (like AirDroid Cast): Some apps like AirDroid Cast (which you already have some experience with AirScreen) can allow you to cast an Android phone/tablet screen to a Windows PC.
However: - These typically require an app on both the Android device (H96Max) and the Windows PC.
- The H96Max's crippled Miracast support might affect its ability to send a stream effectively even to a third-party receiver app on your DPC, as these apps often rely on the underlying Android screen casting APIs.
- They are more commonly designed for phones/tablets, not necessarily for Android TV boxes that have a different display output pipeline.
- Emulators: If your goal is to run specific Android apps on your DPC's screen, and not necessarily the entire H96Max interface, an Android emulator (like Bluestacks, NoxPlayer, Android Studio's emulator) running directly on your DPC would be a far more efficient and integrated solution.
- USB Capture Card: The most reliable way to get any HDMI output (including from an H96Max) onto a PC screen is using a USB video capture card. You'd connect an HDMI cable from the H96Max to the capture card, and the capture card to your DPC via USB. The DPC would then run software (like VLC, OBS Studio, or the capture card's proprietary software) to display the incoming video feed.
Conclusion:
No, the H96Max is not designed to function as a sender for Wireless Display to a Windows 11 PC using built-in Miracast. Its primary function is outputting video via HDMI to a TV, or possibly receiving casts from mobile devices. If you want to view content from the H96Max on your DPC's screen, a USB video capture card is the most guaranteed, albeit not seamless, method.
Me: I think I have a clear picture now of what H96Max screen send/receive connectivity to DPC limitations are and have a general idea of why as well. I have to use DPC and H96Max independently and there are some scenarios where that is useful during development like viewing manual pages on the Internet on h96max connected monitor and code on DPC monitor. But here one small issue is informing H96max which manual page url to go to in its Chrome browser. The google sign-ins are different for h96max which is a rooted Android device and so I have a special sign-in for that only, and sign-in I use on DPC. So I cannot use something like Google Keep to quickly share like I do for sharing with my mobile phone. I will now check pairdrop.net or bluetooth for transferring small files with such info. from DPC to H96Max. But are there any easier solutions. I had used SimpleNote something app in the past. Perhaps I should try that.
Gem gave a longish response which included Simplenote.
Me: I set up Simplenote. That's working out quite well. I have Chrome browse open in H96Max with one tab having SimpleNote (with a somewhat special set of credentials for such stuff). On DPC, I have SimpleNote open with same set of credentials as SimpleNote on H96Max. Now I can copy-paste a link on SimpleNote tab on DPC and that appears very quickly on H96Max Chrome tab. I can simply follow the link on h96max to open the link in a new tab.
...
Me: I now have two additional monitor/device approaches which I may use for different use cases.
A) H96Max + 15.4 in. monitor used as an independent mini computing device with display setup (NOT extended monitor to DPC). A key advantage here is limited physical clutter as the h96max box is very small. Another advantage is that h96 (using short form for h96max) is an android device. So I could run my Timestamp Tracker React Native and Expo app on it and it ran correctly. I also can run my web app on its Chrome browser. It can act as an Internet manual pages display for me to easily refer to while I am using DPC and its monitor primarily for coding. The main disadvantage is that it cannot act as an extended display for DPC.
B) DML optionally with 15.4 in. monitor used as extended wireless display for DPC. This has the extended display advantage. Based on need, either DML internal monitor can be used or it can be connected up to 15.4 in. monitor and internal monitor display switched off. The down side here is the additional physical clutter as the laptop is much bigger than h96 and also the laptop charging cable/unit is also much bigger than h96 power cable.
It has been useful to understand the limitations of my existing devices in this context and come up with above workable approaches. It gives me satisfaction of having made decent efforts to use what I already have, instead of straight away buying additional stuff. Of course, if performance is an issue or my needs become more demanding then I may have no choice but to look at buying additional stuff like USB to HDMI adapter or graphics card (with perhaps SMPS upgrade) or better WiFi adapter. Thanks a ton for all your inputs which has helped me come to this stage.
1. Task Manager (Performance Tab) - Most Reliable Method
This is the go-to method recommended by Microsoft and others for verifying MoI.
On your DPC (the sender):
- Start the Miracast session from DPC to DML as you normally would (Win + K).
- Once the connection is established and your DML is extending/mirroring the DPC's display, open Task Manager on your DPC.
- Right-click on the Taskbar and select "Task Manager," or press
Ctrl + Shift + Esc.
- Right-click on the Taskbar and select "Task Manager," or press
- Go to the "Performance" tab.
- In the left pane, you will see a list of your network adapters (Wi-Fi, Ethernet).
- Observe the graphs:
- If you see active network traffic primarily on your "Ethernet" adapter (the one connected to your Netgear router) and minimal or no significant traffic on your "Wi-Fi" adapter, then Miracast over Infrastructure is working as expected, and the video stream is going over Ethernet.
- If you see significant traffic on your "Wi-Fi" adapter (and possibly two Wi-Fi graphs, one for your main Wi-Fi and one for "Wi-Fi Direct" with an SSID starting
DIRECT-xy), it means it has fallen back to standard Wi-Fi Direct Miracast.
Explanation: Miracast over Infrastructure (MoI) still uses the Wi-Fi radio for the initial discovery and negotiation. However, once the connection is established, if Windows detects that both devices are on the same "enterprise network" (your private Ethernet segment in this case) and TCP Port 7250 is open, it will attempt to route the actual video data over the more stable and often faster Ethernet connection. By monitoring the performance graphs, you see which adapter is handling the bulk of the data.
...
Me: The activity is in Wi-Fi - S 5 to 8 Mbps. Ethernet is typically 0.
Gem gave a long response with some suggestions ...
Me: I tried the simple test of switching WiFi off - the connection stopped straight away.
Rest of the possibiilties you mention are too complex. I mean, it is not worth spending time on it. Disappointing the Windows is not using the Ethernet link even when it is made private.
Just saw that Ethernet was public on DML . I will try changing that to private and do one last test. If that works fine. It would give us a working Ethernet solution for extended monitor which I can use when needed. Otherwise I will drop it and use only the WiFi solution for extended monitor.
-----
I then had to repeat the Powershell Admin commands done earlier on DPC, now on DML.
Me: I have changed it to private on DML too. Still Ethernet is not used. Only WiFi.
----
Me: To test the Wi Fi cast from DPC to DML, I am playing a youtube video at 1080p full screen on DML as extended display. The display of the video is quite OK. I mean there is no lag.
Gem: The fact that you can play a 1080p YouTube video full screen on the DML as an extended display with no noticeable lag is a strong indication that:
- Your DPC's Wi-Fi adapter is robust enough to encode and send the Miracast stream effectively.
- Your Wi-Fi network (mobile hotspot) is providing sufficient bandwidth and stability for the Miracast connection.
- The DML (especially with the external 15.4-inch monitor handling the display) is successfully receiving and decoding the stream without significant bottlenecks.
This test is much more demanding than simply mirroring a static desktop, as it involves continuous, high-bandwidth video data. The absence of lag suggests a solid, reliable wireless link for your extended display needs.
This directly supports your decision to rely on the Wi-Fi solution for your extended monitor. If it performs well under a demanding scenario like 1080p video, it should certainly handle your development workflow (VS Code, Timestamp Tracker apps) with ease.
Me: Task Manager Performance shows 7.7 Mpbs as the average Send output from DPC. It also shows Throughput as 11 Mbps (top of graph).
Gem: The Task Manager Performance data you've provided:
- Average Send output from DPC: 7.7 Mbps
- Throughput (top of graph): 11 Mbps
This makes perfect sense and strongly supports the observation that your 1080p YouTube video is playing "quite OK" with "no lag."
Here's a quick breakdown of what these numbers tell us:
-
7.7 Mbps Send Output: This is the actual average data rate that your DPC is sending over the Wi-Fi connection to the DML for the Miracast stream. For a 1080p video, especially one from YouTube which is already highly compressed, 7.7 Mbps is a very reasonable and sufficient bitrate. It indicates the stream is flowing efficiently.
-
11 Mbps Throughput: This "Throughput" number at the top of the graph typically represents the current peak or sustained capacity of the Wi-Fi connection at that moment. The fact that your actual send output (7.7 Mbps) is well within this 11 Mbps throughput means that the connection has headroom. You're not maxing out the link, which contributes significantly to the "no lag" experience. If your send output was consistently close to or exceeding the throughput, that's when you'd see stuttering, buffering, or lag.
In summary:
These numbers confirm that your Wi-Fi connection (via your mobile hotspot) is providing more than enough bandwidth and stability to handle the 1080p Miracast stream from your DPC to the DML. The Miracast encoding on your DPC and decoding on the DML (outputting to the 15.4-inch monitor) are also performing very well within these bandwidth constraints.
This is a great outcome and validates your decision to stick with the wireless Miracast solution, as it's clearly meeting your performance needs.
Me: I am using 11.6 inch internal monitor of DML as of now.
Gem: Ah, thank you for that clarification! That's a key detail.
So, to be clear:
- DPC (Windows 11) is wirelessly casting/extending its display to the DML.
- The DML (Windows 10) is currently using its internal 11.6-inch monitor to display the extended desktop from the DPC.
- The 15.4-inch external monitor is not currently connected to the DML for this wireless display scenario.
This information is important because it means the DML's internal display components and drivers are handling the output of the Miracast stream, rather than the external monitor's HDMI path.
The fact that you're getting smooth 1080p YouTube playback with no lag, and a consistent 7.7 Mbps Miracast stream over Wi-Fi even when using the DML's internal 11.6-inch monitor, is even more impressive!
This suggests:
- The DML's Celeron processor and integrated graphics are handling the Miracast decoding very efficiently. This is often the biggest bottleneck for older/lower-power devices acting as receivers.
- The DML's internal display controller is performing well and not introducing significant overhead or lag for the decoded Miracast stream. This somewhat contrasts with our earlier theoretical discussion about potential internal display overhead, showing that in your specific DML's case, it's coping very well.
This just further strengthens your decision to rely on the wireless Miracast solution. It proves that even the DML's internal screen is perfectly capable of handling the extended display duties for your development needs. The option to switch to the 15.4-inch external monitor (via HDMI) if you ever need a larger physical display or perceive any minor issues in the future is still there, but it's great to know the internal screen is performing admirably.
Me: OK. I will use only WiFi for this extended display. But with this wired link I could use it for other work like large file transfer for better speed if and when I need it. Am I right?
Gem: That's an excellent point, and yes, you are absolutely right!
Even though the wired Ethernet link didn't pan out for Miracast over Infrastructure as expected, it's still a perfectly functional 10/100 Mbps local network connection between your DPC and DML.
This means you can indeed use it for other purposes, most notably:
- Large File Transfers: A 100 Mbps (Megabits per second) Ethernet connection translates to a theoretical maximum of about 12.5 MB/s (Megabytes per second). In real-world scenarios, you'll typically see speeds between 8 MB/s to 11 MB/s. This is significantly faster and more reliable than Wi-Fi for transferring large files, especially if your mobile hotspot's Wi-Fi network is congested or provides slower speeds (e.g., 802.11g or if the signal is weak).
- Other Local Network Communications: Any other applications that benefit from a stable, low-latency local network connection between the two PCs (e.g., running a local server on one, accessing shared folders, or even some specific multi-player games if they were lightweight enough) would benefit from this wired link.
How to use it for File Transfer:
- Ensure both DPC and DML are connected to the Netgear router's LAN ports via Ethernet cables.
- Verify both have APIPA addresses (169.254.x.x) and that they can ping each other (which you've already confirmed!).
- Set up File Sharing:
- On the PC you want to share files from, go to
Settings > Network & Internet > Ethernet. - Under "Network Profile," ensure it's set to "Private" (which you've done for DPC, ensure it stays private, and DML should also be private).
- Then, right-click on a folder you want to share, go to "Properties," then the "Sharing" tab.
- Click "Advanced Sharing..." and check "Share this folder." You can then set permissions.
- Alternatively, for simpler sharing, you can enable "Network Discovery" and "File and Printer Sharing" in the "Advanced sharing settings" within "Network and Sharing Center" (Control Panel).
- On the PC you want to share files from, go to
- Access Shared Files:
- From the other PC, open File Explorer.
- In the address bar, type
\\169.254.X.X(where X.X is the APIPA IP address of the sharing PC). - You should then be able to browse the shared folders.
So, while the wired link wasn't the magic bullet for Miracast over Infrastructure, it certainly remains a valuable asset for fast and stable local file transfers and other direct peer-to-peer communications between your DPC and DML. It's a great example of how different network technologies serve different purposes, and you've effectively set it up for its strengths.
Me: While I have the netgear router outside for these tests, I was curious if I could use it as a Wi Fi network router to connect my phone to h96max. If that's possible then I could cast from phone to h96max without using mobile hotspot.
Gem: Yes, you absolutely can use your Netgear WGR614v9 router to create a local Wi-Fi network for your phone and H96Max, even without it being connected to the internet. This setup effectively turns your Netgear router into a Wireless Access Point (AP).
This is a great idea for your specific use case (casting from phone to H96Max) because:
- Dedicated Local Network: It creates a dedicated Wi-Fi network just for your local devices (phone, H96Max).
- No Internet Required: The router doesn't need an internet connection to provide a local Wi-Fi network.
- Reduced Mobile Hotspot Load: It takes the load off your phone's mobile hotspot for internal casting, which can save battery and potentially free up your phone's mobile data for actual internet use if needed.
- Potentially Better Performance for Local Casting: A dedicated AP might offer more consistent Wi-Fi performance for local casting than a mobile hotspot, especially if the phone is also busy with other tasks.
How to Set up Netgear WGR614v9 as a Local Wi-Fi Access Point:
The process involves configuring the Netgear router to act as a switch with a Wi-Fi radio, and disabling its DHCP server (which you've already done for the wired tests, but we'll re-confirm).
Important Note for WGR614v9: This is an older "Wireless-G" (802.11g) router. While it will provide Wi-Fi, its maximum speed is 54 Mbps. This is usually fine for local casting, especially for a single stream, but won't be as fast as modern Wi-Fi N or AC routers.
Steps:
-
Connect to the Netgear Router:
- Connect your DPC (or DML) to one of the LAN (numbered) Ethernet ports on the Netgear router.
- Make sure no cable is plugged into the yellow "Internet" or "WAN" port.
- Your computer should get an APIPA IP (169.254.x.x) or, if the router still has its DHCP server enabled from a previous state, it might give out a 192.168.1.x address.
- Access the router's web interface, usually by typing
http://192.168.1.1in your browser. Log in (defaultadmin/passwordunless you changed it).
-
Configure LAN Settings (Router IP):
- Navigate to LAN Setup or Router IP Address settings.
- Crucially, set the Netgear's IP address to something outside the range of any other router you might sometimes connect to. For example, if your mobile hotspot uses 192.168.134.x, set the Netgear to
192.168.1.1(its default often) or10.0.0.1(as you tried before), or192.168.50.1. The key is that it doesn't conflict with your mobile hotspot if they were ever both active simultaneously. - Subnet Mask: Leave as
255.255.255.0. - Disable DHCP Server: Go to the DHCP Settings section within LAN Setup. Uncheck "Use Router as DHCP Server" or select "Disable." This is critical so the router only acts as a switch/AP, and doesn't try to hand out IPs (which would cause conflicts with APIPA or your mobile hotspot's DHCP if used together).
-
Configure Wireless Settings:
- Navigate to Wireless Settings (or Wireless Setup/Wireless Network).
- Enable Wireless Radio: Make sure the Wi-Fi radio is turned ON.
- SSID (Network Name): Give your Wi-Fi network a unique name (e.g., "MyLocalCastWifi").
- Security Option: Set a strong password. WPA2-PSK [AES] is the recommended and most secure option your WGR614v9 likely supports. Do NOT use WEP if possible.
- Channel: You can leave it on "Auto" or manually select a channel (e.g., 1, 6, or 11) to avoid interference if you notice performance issues later.
- Apply/Save Settings. The router will likely reboot.
-
Connect Your Devices:
- Phone: On your smartphone, go to Wi-Fi settings and connect to the new Wi-Fi network name (SSID) you just created.
- H96Max: Go to its Android Wi-Fi settings and connect to the new Wi-Fi network name.
Testing the Phone to H96Max Cast:
Once both your phone and H96Max are connected to the Netgear's Wi-Fi network, they will receive APIPA addresses (169.254.x.x) if the Netgear's DHCP is disabled and it's not connected to another DHCP server. This is perfectly fine for local communication.
Now you can try casting from your phone to the H96Max using whatever casting method you prefer (e.g., Google Home app, Smart View/Screen Cast, third-party apps like AirDroid Cast if installed on H96Max). Since they are on the same local network (provided by the Netgear AP), the casting should work.
This setup should allow your phone and H96Max to communicate and cast locally without needing your mobile hotspot for that specific purpose, fulfilling your curiosity!
Me: Netgear router is already with IP 10.0.0.1 How can I access its admin page from DPC which is connected to it via Ethernet but has APIPA IP something and not a 10.0.0.x ip?
Gem: You've run into a classic networking challenge! Your DPC has an APIPA address (169.254.x.x), and your Netgear router has a static IP in a completely different subnet (10.0.0.1). By default, Windows won't "route" to a different subnet when it has an APIPA address, because APIPA is specifically designed for communication within its own self-assigned link-local subnet.
This means you cannot directly access the Netgear's 10.0.0.1 admin page from your DPC while the DPC has a 169.254.x.x address.
The Solution: Temporarily Assign a Static IP to your DPC
You need to temporarily configure your DPC's Ethernet adapter with a static IP address that is in the same subnet as your Netgear router (10.0.0.x).
Steps:
-
Disconnect DPC from any other networks (especially Wi-Fi) to avoid confusion. Only connect DPC to the Netgear router via Ethernet.
-
Open Network Connections on DPC:
- Press
Win + R, typencpa.cpl, and press Enter. This will open the Network Connections window.
- Press
-
Access Ethernet Adapter Properties:
- Right-click on your Ethernet adapter (the one connected to the Netgear router).
- Select
Properties.
-
Configure IPv4 Properties:
- In the Ethernet Properties window, scroll down and select "Internet Protocol Version 4 (TCP/IPv4)".
- Click the
Propertiesbutton.
-
Assign a Static IP Address:
- Select "Use the following IP address".
- IP address: Enter an IP address in the same subnet as your router, but not the router's IP itself. A good choice would be
10.0.0.2(assuming no other device on that specific router's network uses it). - Subnet mask: Enter
255.255.255.0(this is the standard subnet mask for a /24 network like 10.0.0.x). - Default gateway: Enter your Netgear router's IP address:
10.0.0.1. - DNS servers: You can leave these blank, or if you know your mobile hotspot's DNS servers, you could put those, but it's not strictly necessary for just accessing the router's local admin page.
- Click
OKon both windows to save the changes.
-
Verify Connectivity:
- Open Command Prompt (
cmd). - Ping your router:
ping 10.0.0.1 - You should now receive successful replies.
- Open Command Prompt (
-
Access Router Admin Page:
- Open your web browser.
- Type
http://10.0.0.1into the address bar and press Enter. - You should now be able to access the Netgear router's admin login page.
After you're done configuring the Netgear router:
- Remember to revert your DPC's Ethernet adapter settings back to "Obtain an IP address automatically" (DHCP) if you want it to receive an APIPA address again when no DHCP server is present, or a proper IP from your mobile hotspot if that's its usual connection. Otherwise, the DPC will continue to try and use 10.0.0.2, which might cause issues when you connect it to other networks.
This temporary static IP assignment is the standard way to access a network device that's on a different subnet than your computer's automatically assigned (APIPA) address.
I removed the password on netgear for tests. but still same issue on phone.
But DPC is able to connect successfully to Netgear over WiFi
Reset pwd as earlier on Netgear
Then connected again from phone and h96. Both got connected (after password was given).
AirScreen needs an Internet connection. Phone can use WiFi or Mobile Hotspot not both. Internet connection is available only on phone. So this cast experiment also did not work.
But I got the settings for Netgear router to work as a WiFi router for devices like phone, h96 as well as PC. And if I understood it correctly, once I have setup the router settings properly, I can disconnect the ethernet cable from it. So from clutter point of view for using it as WiFi router, it is a small router (no problem) and its power cable and adapter. That's a useful learning from this experiment. Many years ago (when I was having an Internet broadband connection and using the Netgear router with it) I had used such settings but forgot about it. You have helped guide me to reacquire this knowledge relatively simply as against going through manual pages and figuring things out from there which can be challenging. Thanks a lot.
Gem: ... You are also correct that once you have set up the router's settings properly (SSID, password, DHCP, etc.), you can disconnect the Ethernet cable from it (the one connecting it to your DPC). The router will then operate purely as a standalone Wi-Fi Access Point (AP) for your local devices. This minimizes clutter, as you noted, needing only its power cable.
Addressing the AirScreen/Internet Connection Issue:
You've identified a key limitation for many casting/mirroring apps: "AirScreen needs an Internet connection." This is a very common requirement, unfortunately, even for apps that primarily do local casting. Many such apps (and underlying casting protocols like Google Cast/Chromecast) rely on:
- Cloud Services: To authenticate, license, or even facilitate initial discovery and handshake.
- DNS Resolution: Even if local, the app might try to resolve hostnames via public DNS servers.
- Updates/Telemetry: Apps often need to "phone home" for updates or send usage data.
Since your phone has the internet connection, and the H96Max does not (when connected only to the Netgear's local Wi-Fi), AirScreen on the H96Max is likely failing because it can't reach its required internet services.
"Phone can use WiFi or Mobile Hotspot not both." This is also accurate. A phone can only connect to one Wi-Fi network (the Netgear's) or act as a Mobile Hotspot (creating its own Wi-Fi network) at any given time. It can't simultaneously connect to the Netgear's Wi-Fi for local casting and use its own mobile data for internet and share that mobile data over the Netgear's Wi-Fi.
Here's a summary of your device's key specs:
Chipset/Processor: Rockchip RK3318 Quad-Core 64bit Cortex-A53
GPU: Penta-Core Mali-450
RAM: 4 GB DDR3
Flash Storage: 32 GB
OS: Android 11.0
Connectivity: Ethernet RJ45 LAN (10/100), WiFi 2.4G/5G, Bluetooth 4.0
Ports: HDMI, 1x USB 3.0, 1x USB 2.0, TF card slot, AV socket
Based on these specs, your H96 Max is a capable Android TV box for media consumption and light computing tasks. The RK3318 is a common entry-level to mid-range chip for these devices, and 4GB RAM with 32GB storage is decent. Android 11 is also a relatively modern OS for these boxes.
===========
Unfortunately, the nature of how Android handles "recent apps" and app switching makes this a bit tricky without any background service. Here's why:
"Recent Apps" is a System-Level Function: The screen that shows your open apps (the "recents" list) is a core part of the Android operating system.
Apps usually don't have direct access to display this list themselves without using an Accessibility Service (like Button Mapper or Swiftly Switch do to trigger it) or being a "launcher" app (which replaces your home screen entirely). No Direct "Intent" to Show Recent Apps: Unlike opening a specific app (which you do via an "Intent"), there isn't a direct standard Android "Intent" that a regular app can fire to simply bring up the system's recent apps list without needing special permissions or services.
To "List Running Apps": Any app that itself lists the running apps and lets you pick them needs permission to query running processes. While this isn't as heavy as a constant listener, it still requires some level of background presence or a triggered query.
What are the closest options to your desired "on-invocation" model?
Since you're trying to avoid a constant background listener, the ideal solution would be a keyboard shortcut that directly calls the system's "Recent Apps" screen. If your H96 Max firmware doesn't support the standard ALT + TAB or a dedicated "Recent Apps" key, then we're stuck.
Here's the problem with "on-invocation" for app switching:
An "on-invocation" app means you have to launch that app first. How would you launch it quickly from within another app (like Chrome) without a shortcut, a button, or an overlay? You'd have to go to the home screen first, then find and tap the app. This defeats the purpose of quick switching.
Re-evaluating Button Mapper's Impact for "Recent Apps"
Let's reconsider Button Mapper, specifically for the "Recent Apps" function.
Minimal Configuration: If you configure Button Mapper only to map one specific key (e.g.,
F1) to the "Recent Apps" action, its background activity is primarily limited to listening for that one key. It's not actively analyzing all keystrokes for complex remappings.Triggering a Native System Function: Crucially, when Button Mapper successfully maps a key to "Recent Apps," it's not launching its own complex interface. It's simply sending the command to the Android OS to display its own built-in recent apps screen. This is the most efficient way to get to that screen if a native hardware key doesn't work.
Compared to Swiftly Switch: Swiftly Switch creates its own overlay, manages its own list of apps, and constantly monitors for swipe gestures. This is generally more resource-intensive than Button Mapper just triggering a system intent.
Therefore, for pure "Recent Apps" functionality, Button Mapper (mapped to a single key for that action) is still likely the lightest and most efficient software solution if native keyboard keys fail.
The alternative would be to:
Go to Home (
Alt + Esc)Then go to "All Apps" (
F5)Then manually navigate and open the desired app.
This is significantly less efficient than a single keypress to bring up the recents list.
My Recommendation (Still):
Try Button Mapper again, but with a very specific, minimal goal: Install it, grant accessibility, and immediately try to map a less-used
Fkey (likeF1orF2) to the "Recent Apps" action.Monitor its performance impact: Once you've done only this one mapping, use your H96 Max normally for a day or two. If you notice any measurable slowdown only after this specific configuration, then you can consider alternatives.
Given your 4GB RAM and a decent processor for a TV box, the impact of Button Mapper performing just this one specific task should be negligible. It's often the combination of many background apps, poorly optimized apps, or specific firmware quirks that cause real slowdowns, not usually one well-behaved accessibility service configured for a single, simple task.
There isn't a truly "on-invocation" app switcher that bypasses the need for some form of background listener or launcher functionality, because to invoke it quickly, it needs to be ready to be called from anywhere.
Me: I am ok with having to go to home screen to launch the list running apps app. I mean it is such a key function to know what the running apps on the device. A regular Android phone has a system button for that. h96 does not. But I think I understand your point about Android OS not providing such functionality to any app. If that's the case then that is a pity as it is a common functionality provided by most PC type OS.
Gem: You've articulated a very common point of frustration for users trying to use Android TV boxes as mini-PCs. You're absolutely right that on a traditional desktop OS (Windows, macOS, Linux), a task manager or "recent apps" list is a fundamental, easily accessible feature. Android's design, while great for touch-first devices, can be less intuitive for keyboard/mouse navigation in this specific area, especially on devices where manufacturers might strip down or re-map standard functions.
You're also correct that the Android OS doesn't expose a straightforward "Intent" for a regular app to just pop up the system's "Recent Apps" list without elevated permissions (like Accessibility Services). This is largely a security and design choice, aiming to keep core system UI elements under tighter control and to prevent rogue apps from interfering with the user experience. It's a "pity" indeed for power users like yourself!
However, your idea of going to the home screen and then launching an app that lists running apps is completely feasible. It won't be as fast as a direct Alt+Tab, but it satisfies your requirement of not having a constant background listener while still providing visibility into running processes.
Here's how we can approach this, focusing on apps that provide a "task manager" or "running services" view: Yes, you absolutely can install an app that functions as a "task manager" or "process list" on your H96 Max. These apps are designed to be launched, display information about running processes, and often allow you to close them.
The key difference from a direct "Recent Apps" button is that these apps focus more on managing processes (showing memory/CPU usage, giving options to force stop) rather than switching to them instantly. While many of them list the apps, you'd usually then "force stop" or "kill" an app, rather than simply bringing it to the foreground.
Recommended Apps for Listing/Managing Running Apps:
Here are a couple of popular and generally well-regarded options that should work on Android 11 (some are designed for Android TV, others are more general Android apps but often work fine with a mouse/keyboard):
"Background Apps & Process List" (by Vishnu N K):
Availability: Often found directly on the Google Play Store for Android TV, or can be sideloaded. (Search for "Background Apps & Process List" in your H96 Max's Play Store).
Features: This app is quite popular for TV boxes. It lists both user apps and system apps. It has options to close all apps at once or selected apps. It's often described as "remote friendly" which is good for your mouse/keyboard setup.
How it works for you: You'd launch this app from your home screen (or via
F5to "All Apps" then selecting it). It would then show you the list of running apps. From there, you might need to click on an app to go to its "App Info" page and then select "Force Stop" if you want to close it. It's not a "switch" but a "manage/close" function.
"Activity Monitor: Task Manager" (by Opoloo):
Availability: Also often found on Google Play.
Features: Provides statistics on CPU and RAM usage, lists running applications, and allows you to kill unnecessary processes. It's designed to give you a real-time view of your device's performance.
How it works for you: Similar to the above, you'd launch it, see the list of apps, and then manage them.
Important Considerations for these apps:
"Force Stop" vs. "Switch": Most of these "task killer" or "process list" apps are primarily designed to terminate apps that are running in the background and consuming resources. They generally do not offer a direct "switch to this app" function. If you select an app from their list, it will often take you to the Android "App Info" page for that app, where you can then choose to "Force Stop" it. To resume using that app, you'd typically have to launch it again from the home screen or All Apps list.
Permissions: These apps will require "Accessibility Service" permission to effectively query and manage other applications. Grant this when prompted.
Ads: Some free versions of these apps might display ads. Read reviews to get an idea of the ad frequency if that's a concern.
System Apps: Be cautious when force-stopping system apps. Only stop user-installed apps unless you are absolutely sure what you're doing, as stopping critical system processes can cause instability.
Your Workflow with a Task Manager App:
From any app (e.g., Chrome), use your
Alt + Escshortcut to go to the Home Screen.Use your mouse or keyboard navigation to open the "Background Apps & Process List" (or similar) app. You can put a shortcut to it on your home screen for quick access.
Inside the app, view the list of running processes.
If an app is misbehaving or you want to free up resources, select it and choose to "Force Stop" it (this usually requires going to its App Info page).
This will give you the visibility and control you desire over running apps, even if it's not a one-click "switch." It's a trade-off that prioritizes resource management and avoids constant background listeners, which aligns with your preference for maintaining system speed.
============
To copy-paste, Keyboard Ctrl+C and Ctrl+V works in Chrome browser but while text can be selected with mouse, right-click is hard-wired to go back one screen.
==========
Me: I tried out the Background Apps & Process List app. It is very interesting. Great to have such details of user apps and processes that are running, and also the option to kill user apps. BTW on Android TV what is the typical way to close a user opened app?
Gem: That's an excellent follow-up question, and it highlights a common point of confusion for users transitioning from Android phones or traditional PCs to Android TV devices like your H96 Max.
On a "pure" Android TV experience (like a Sony Android TV or a Nvidia Shield TV), the typical ways to close a user-opened app are somewhat limited compared to a phone, and often don't truly "kill" the app process:
Simply Going Home: The most common "typical" way is to just press the Home button on the remote (or your
Alt + Escshortcut). This sends the app to the background. Android is designed to manage background apps relatively well, keeping them "paused" in memory so they can quickly resume. However, it doesn't truly close or terminate the app. It's more like minimizing a window on a PC.Effect: The app is no longer in the foreground, but its process might still be active, consuming some RAM and CPU.
Using the "Recent Apps" List (if available and functional): On some Android TV devices, a "Recent Apps" button (often a double-tap of the Home button or a dedicated button on the remote) brings up a carousel or list of recently used apps. From this list, you can often:
Swipe/Dismiss: Some Android TV interfaces allow you to swipe an app card off the screen (usually up or to the side) to "dismiss" it from the recent apps list. This often does trigger a more thorough closing of the app's process, but it's not a universal feature.
Long-press for Info/Force Stop: On many Android TV devices, if you navigate to an app in the "Recent Apps" list and long-press the "OK" or "Enter" button, it might give you an "App Info" option.
Selecting that takes you to the same "App Info" screen where you can "Force Stop" the app. Your Situation: As we've discussed, your H96 Max doesn't seem to have a functional "Recent Apps" key or
Alt+Tabthat behaves this way, which is why your "Background Apps & Process List" app is so useful.
Going through Settings to Force Stop (The "Official" Android Way to Close):
This is the universal Android method to truly stop an app's process, and it's what your "Background Apps & Process List" app streamlines for you.
Steps (Manual Way):
Go to Settings (usually from the Home screen).
Navigate to Apps.
Select "See all apps" (or just find the app you want to close).
Select the specific app.
Choose "Force Stop."
Confirm the action if prompted.
Effect: This terminates the app's process, releasing all the RAM and CPU it was using. The app will only restart if you manually open it again or if it's designed to start on boot (and the system re-launches it).
In summary, for a typical Android TV box like your H96 Max:
To put an app in the background: Press the Home button (or
Alt + Esc). This is the most common user action.To truly close/kill an app's process: You usually need to go to Settings > Apps > [App Name] > Force Stop.
Your new "Background Apps & Process List" app is a fantastic shortcut for this process, making it much more efficient than navigating through multiple settings menus every time.
So, while simply going "Home" is the typical user behavior, you've now equipped your H96 Max with the necessary tool to perform the actual closing (Force Stop) of apps, which is crucial for maintaining performance on a device used as a mini-PC.
Me: Good to get a confirmation from you that 'force stop' may be the only way to close apps on simple Android TV devices like h96. I will use it sparingly as it is not a clean close - it is a kill process and may have some issues for some apps. But if I want to avoid spending time on rebooting the device which will surely close all open apps, but free up some resources if I find the device to be sluggish in operation then I will go with this 'force stop' option via 'Background Apps & Process List" as it very importantly tells me which user apps are running (whereas Settings does not give that info. as a list).
======
Me: Also I wanted to confirm that device reboot will ensure all user opened apps are closed when the device boots up. Am i right?
Gem said generally yes.
What you're describing – where the "Show virtual keyboard" setting is toggled OFF, but the OSK still appears, and the right-click sometimes dismisses it – is a classic symptom of a broken or poorly implemented firmware.
Many users of these generic boxes report this exact behavior. The setting is there in the menu, but it simply doesn't function as intended. ...
==============
Given your background with React Native, Expo, and ADB, you're in a prime position to delve deeper if you ever choose to. For now, since you don't want to invest much time, let's stick to what's practical and confirm your excellent insights.
You've essentially answered your own question about "No Keyboard" potentially adding more event handling work, but let's confirm.
Regarding "No Keyboard" and Event Handling:
Your assessment is correct:
Standard Android keyboard (AOSP, Gboard, etc.): These are complex Input Method Editors (IMEs). They are constantly listening for various input events (key presses, touch gestures on the screen for typing, voice input, etc.), performing predictions, auto-corrections, and then injecting characters into text fields. They are inherently designed to do a lot of "event handling work" and process data in real-time.
"No Keyboard: Hideable keyboard": This app is also an IME, but its primary function is to not have a UI and to not perform any complex text processing. It still needs to "listen" to be the active input method, but its processing of those events is minimal to non-existent compared to a full-featured keyboard. It's essentially a pass-through or a null-event handler.
Therefore, it's highly probable that "No Keyboard" adds less event handling work and consumes fewer resources than a standard, feature-rich Android keyboard (like AOSP or Gboard) when active. Its simplicity is its strength in terms of performance. It effectively tells Android, "I'm the keyboard, but don't show anything, and I don't need much processing power."
You've already observed that your Enter key now works correctly because the OSK isn't interfering, which is a direct benefit of "No Keyboard" handling the input events in a simplified manner.
...
Your "No Keyboard" App Assessment is Solid:
Given these limitations, your logical deduction about the "No Keyboard: Hideable keyboard" app is the best and most practical conclusion you can draw:
Tiny Footprint: Its 60 KB size is a strong indicator of minimal resource consumption.
Simple Functionality: Its purpose is to be a blank keyboard, which means it avoids the complex processing, prediction, and UI rendering of a full-featured keyboard (like Gboard or the AOSP keyboard).
Event Handling: While it must be active to be the input method, its "event handling work" is primarily to pass through input from your physical keyboard without adding its own layers of complex interpretation. This is inherently less resource-intensive than a feature-rich virtual keyboard.
So, you're right. It's highly unlikely that "No Keyboard" adds more event handling work or a significant performance penalty compared to any other active input method, especially one that renders a visible OSK. Its very design is to be unobtrusive and lightweight.
ADB for "If Needed" Confirmed:
You've correctly identified that if you ever do need that deep dive into numerical data (perhaps for debugging your own React Native/Expo apps, or if you suspect a more serious issue with the H96 Max in the future), ADB is your tool.
The commands you'd typically use are:
adb shell dumpsys meminfo <package_name>: This gives detailed memory statistics for a specific app. You'd need to find the package name for "No Keyboard" (e.g.,com.vyshnvk.nokeyboard).adb shell top -m 10: This shows the top 10 processes by CPU and memory usage in a text-based format.adb shell procrank: (Less common on newer Android, but sometimes available) Provides detailed process memory info.
But for day-to-day assurance, your current qualitative assessment is perfectly sound. You've solved the core usability problem, and the performance impact is, practically speaking, negligible.
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Turned off Developer Options. IFIRC procedure was Settings -> Device Preferences -> Developer Options -> Toggled it off.
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You're right, for many pre-installed apps (often referred to as "bloatware" or system apps), the standard "Disable" or "Uninstall" button in the App Info screen is simply missing or greyed out. This is because these apps are installed as part of the system image and cannot be removed or fully disabled through the regular user interface without root access.
Apps like Netflix are often pre-loaded by manufacturers as "system apps" because they have licensing agreements or want to ensure a certain suite of services is always available. AirScreen is also a very common pre-installed app for screen mirroring.
Why "Disable" is Important (and often missing for system apps):
"Disable" is Android's way of essentially freezing an app. It prevents it from running, taking up RAM, or showing up in your app drawer, without actually uninstalling it (which would require root for system apps).
This is the ideal solution for unused pre-installed apps. The fact that it's missing for Netflix and AirScreen means they are considered "system" or "protected" apps by your H96 Max's firmware.
Your Options to Disable/Remove Netflix and AirScreen (without Root):
Since the built-in "Disable" option isn't available, your primary method to achieve this without rooting the device is by using ADB (Android Debug Bridge). ....
[H96 is rooted but I did not want to try out any rooted commands on h96 for disabling such apps.]
Me: Oh I see! Thanks for clarifying that adb uninstall stuff only disables. Hmm. I don't want to get into adb stuff due to time issues.
I don't use Netflix - if I want it later, I can always install it again.
But my fear is that h96 may be hard-wired with its standard apps like Netflix and KDMC. If I uninstall them, something might break in regular h96 functionality. Am I on right track or am I being over cautious?
...
Me: I was not considering adb uninstall but App Info uninstall (to save time). That's where I have some fear now that I might trip up h96 as it clearly is not solidly tested and does not conform to all Android best practices. I am not complaining as I got it at a very cheap price. So this comes along with the cheap price territory.
Gem: You're hitting on a crucial point that many users face with generic Android TV boxes: the "Uninstall" option presented directly in the App Info screen for pre-installed apps can be misleading and potentially risky.
You are absolutely right to be cautious. Your fear that the H96 Max might be hard-wired, and that using the built-in "Uninstall" button on pre-installed apps like Netflix and KDMC might break something, is well-founded and a sign of good judgment. ...
Your decision to not use the "Uninstall" option in the App Info for pre-installed apps like Netflix and KDMC, and to hold off on ADB uninstall for now, is the safest and most practical choice given the known quirks of generic Android TV boxes like the H96 Max. ...
This is a standard Android feature designed for exactly this purpose: to temporarily stop an app that's misbehaving or consuming resources, without removing it from the system.
Here's why "Force Stop" is safe for these apps:
No Deletion: "Force Stop" does not delete any app data (unlike "Clear Data") or uninstall the app.
It merely terminates all of its running processes in the background. Temporary Effect: The effect is temporary. The app will remain on your device, and if you or the system (e.g., after a reboot, or if another app explicitly calls it) tries to launch it, it will simply start up again normally.
No Core System Impact: Apps like Netflix, AirScreen (which handles casting/mirroring), and KDMC (a media player) are applications. They are not core components of the Android operating system itself. Force stopping them will not crash your launcher, break Wi-Fi, or prevent your device from booting. The only thing that might happen is that if some part of the H96 Max's custom firmware expected them to be running for a specific shortcut, that shortcut might become unresponsive until the app is launched again. But the system itself will remain stable.
Resource Management: Force stopping immediately frees up any RAM and CPU cycles the app was consuming.
This is a great way to temporarily improve performance if you suspect one of these apps is silently running in the background.
Let's break down the information you provided:
CPU:
cpu curFrq: 408 MHz:curFrqstands for "current frequency." This is the clock speed at which your CPU is currently operating.408 MHz is a very low frequency, which is exactly what you want to see when the device is idle (just after startup, no programs started). It means the CPU is in a low-power state, not actively trying to process much, which saves battery and reduces heat. The Rockchip RK3318 (the common SoC in H96 Max) typically scales its frequency up to around 1.5 GHz under load.
cpu usage: 11%:11% CPU usage at idle is very good and perfectly normal for an Android TV box just after startup.
Android devices always have some background processes running (system UI, services, pre-loaded apps, network monitoring, etc.). 1% to 10-15% is a typical idle range. Anything higher (e.g., consistently above 20%) without any user interaction would indicate something problematic.
cpu tempertaure: 65 (degrees)C:This is the CPU's current temperature.
65°C at idle (or just after startup) is on the higher side of normal, but likely within acceptable operating limits for a passively cooled Android TV box.
For comparison, most desktop CPUs idle between 30-50°C. However, mobile SoCs (like the one in your H96 Max, which is designed for a phone/tablet-like environment and often passively cooled in a small box) tend to run hotter.
The RK3318 chip's maximum safe operating temperature is typically around 80-90°C before it starts thermal throttling (reducing performance to cool down) or risking damage.
Factors that influence this:
Ambient room temperature: If your room is warm, the box will also be warmer.
Ventilation: Is the box in an enclosed space or well-ventilated?
Passive cooling: Most H96 Max models rely on passive cooling (just the case itself dissipating heat) rather than active fans, which naturally leads to higher idle temperatures.
Concern? It's not immediately alarming, but keep an eye on it, especially if it significantly increases during video playback or other activities. If it routinely hits 80°C+ without heavy load, that would be a concern. For now, it suggests the device runs a bit warm, which is common for these boxes.
RAM:
ram total:-155 MB:This reading is definitely an error or a misinterpretation by the dialog. "-155 MB" for total RAM makes no sense. The H96 Max typically comes with 2GB or 4GB of RAM. It's likely displaying some kind of internal debug value or a malformed calculation.
sys ram free: 3.09 GB:This is the amount of free RAM the system reports.
This reading is also suspiciously high given that the H96 Max usually has 2GB or 4GB of total RAM. If your box has 4GB RAM, then 3.09GB free means almost nothing is being used, which is highly unlikely for Android after boot. If your box has 2GB RAM, then 3.09GB free is impossible.
What it might indicate (less likely on generic box): On some systems, "free" might include cached memory that can be instantly reclaimed by apps, but 3.09GB is still an improbable number unless your box has significantly more RAM than typical models (e.g., 6GB or 8GB, which is rare for the RK3318).
Most likely conclusion: This "Performance Dialog" has a bug in how it reports total and free RAM. It's not a reliable indicator for memory. This is consistent with how many of these generic firmwares handle system information (as you found with the missing Developer Options entries).
Network:
net speed: 0.0 kb/s:This is expected and good. It means no network activity is occurring at idle, confirming no background downloads or heavy data usage.
Overall Assessment of the Performance Dialog:
CPU Metrics (Frequency, Usage, Temperature): These seem to be largely reliable and provide good insights. The CPU usage is excellent for idle, and the frequency scaling is working as expected. The temperature is a bit high for idle, but may be "normal" for this specific box's design.
RAM Metrics: The RAM reporting is clearly buggy and unreliable ("-155 MB" total, and an impossible "3.09 GB" free). Do not rely on this dialog for accurate RAM usage.
It's great that you found this hidden "Performance Dialog"! It confirms that your CPU is indeed idling very efficiently, but also highlights the inconsistent quality of the H96 Max's custom firmware, particularly in its RAM reporting.
...
Me: I opened many apps on h96. The sys ram free has come down to 2.49 GB but the ram total remains the same 155 MB. So my guess that it was user apps RAM is wrong as that would have changed as I loaded so many apps.
...
Me: as i run youtube video the temperature jumps into 70s, once touching 80.
...
This confirms that the higher resolution (1080p, and presumably higher quality bitrate from YouTube) is indeed pushing your H96 Max's Rockchip RK3318 SoC harder, leading to the increased temperatures.
Here's the refined analysis:
1080p is a significant workload: Even on a 15.4-inch monitor, playing 1080p video from YouTube requires substantial video decoding and rendering work from the RK3318's GPU (Mali-450) and CPU. This is a continuous, demanding task for a passively cooled budget SoC.
70s-80s°C is expected for this workload on H96 Max: Given that your idle temperature is already 65°C, it's entirely predictable that under sustained 1080p video playback, the temperature would rise into the 70s and occasionally touch 80°C. This is normal behavior for this specific device and its thermal design.
Operating Limits: As previously discussed, the RK3318 chip is likely rated to operate safely in the 80s, with thermal throttling points typically in the high 80s or low 90s°C. So, hitting 80°C is at the higher end of its comfortable operating zone but not necessarily immediately critical.
What this means for you:
Performance vs. Heat is a Trade-off: You're directly observing the trade-off. Running at 1080p gives you better visual quality but generates more heat. If you were to drop back to "auto" (which likely renders at a lower resolution on a 15.4-inch monitor if bandwidth is limited or default settings are lower), you'd see temperatures drop.
Longevity Concerns (Sustained High Temps): While occasional spikes to 80°C are generally tolerated, sustained operation for long periods (many hours daily) at 80°C or above can potentially contribute to a reduced lifespan of the electronic components over the years. This is a general rule for all electronics.
Some users in forums discussing similar Android boxes report devices lasting 2-3 years under heavy, hot usage, while others with better cooling or lighter use last longer.
No Immediate Alarm: You shouldn't be immediately alarmed or worried about the device failing right away. The chip is designed to handle these loads, and it will throttle itself before self-destructing.
Ventilation is Key: Ensuring maximum airflow around the box is the most important (and free) step. Don't place it in an enclosed space, on carpet, or near other heat-generating devices.
In summary, your H96 Max is performing as expected under a 1080p YouTube load, reaching temperatures that are high but likely within its design tolerance. It's a clear indication that it's working hard. If long-term longevity is a strong concern and you plan to use it for many hours daily at 1080p, then active cooling (like a small USB fan) would be the next step to keep temperatures lower. Otherwise, simply continue to monitor its performance.
=================
Win Enter -> Home
Win Backspace -> Back
Win B -> Opens browser (Chrome)
The ones that don't work:
ALT TAB -> Recent
Win N -> Notifications
Win / -> Keyboard shortcuts
Win [Space] -> Switch keyboard layout
==========
There is no visible mechanism to edit the keyboard shortcuts.
Here's a breakdown of your excellent observations and what they tell us:
The "Search" Key (Magnifying Glass/Search Icon)
Standard Android Behavior: On physical Android keyboards (especially older ones or those designed for Android TV), there's often a dedicated "Search" key (represented by a magnifying glass icon). This key typically maps to the "Meta" keycode in Android.
"Win" Key as Meta: On standard PC keyboards, the Windows key (also known as the Super key, Command key on Macs) is almost universally mapped to the Android "Meta" keycode. This is why your
Win + Enter,Win + Backspace, andWin + Bshortcuts are working. This is common and expected behavior.
Working Shortcuts (Win Key as Search/Meta)
Win + Enter-> Home: This is a very common and standard Android shortcut for the home screen.Win + Backspace-> Back: Also a very common and useful Android shortcut for the back action.Win + B-> Opens browser (Chrome): This is a long-standing Android shortcut to open the default browser.
The fact that these work confirms your keyboard's Win key is correctly acting as the Android "Search" (Meta) key, and that the H96 Max's firmware does recognize and respond to these particular standard shortcuts.
Non-Working Shortcuts
ALT + TAB-> Recent: This is indeed the standard Android shortcut for switching between recent apps. The fact that it doesn't work on your H96 Max (despite being listed) is a strong indicator of an incomplete or non-standard implementation in its firmware. This is a very useful shortcut for multitasking, so its absence is notable.Win + N-> Notifications: Another standard Android shortcut for bringing up the notification shade. Its failure also points to an incomplete firmware implementation.Win + /-> Keyboard shortcuts: This shortcut is supposed to bring up the very helper you're looking at! Its non-functionality is a bit ironic and further evidence of the partial implementation.Win + [Space]-> Switch keyboard layout: This is standard for changing input languages/keyboard layouts (if multiple are configured). Its failure means the H96 Max likely doesn't fully support switching layouts this way, or it's simply not mapped.
Other Observations
F5 to F8mapped to apps: This is definitely a customization by the H96 Max manufacturer. Standard Android doesn't typically map F-keys to specific apps by default in this manner. This shows they've added their own layer of keybinding.Print Screen-> Screenshot: This is a common and welcome mapping on many Android TV boxes, mimicking PC behavior. It's often a custom addition by the manufacturer.Win + TabandWin + other keyshaving no effect: This further reinforces that the H96 Max only responds to the specific shortcuts it has chosen to implement, rather than a full standard Android TV keyboard mapping.
Your Guess is Spot On!
"My guess is that the keyboard shortcuts listed in the Settings screen are standard Android TV keyboard shortcuts. H96Max seems to have implemented only some of them."
This is the most accurate and logical conclusion. The H96 Max, like many generic Android TV boxes, takes the base Android (or Android TV) AOSP (Android Open Source Project) code and then customizes it. This customization often involves:
Adding their own launcher.
Pre-installing certain apps (bloatware).
Implementing some standard features (like the common Win key shortcuts) but omitting others due to time, resources, or simply not deeming them essential for their target user base.
Adding their own unique keybindings (like your F-keys).
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Me: H96max has a button on top right of home screen which when clicked results in a small animation of a rocket going up from middle of bottom of screen to top and vanishing. It also shows a fleeting box in the bottom middle part of screen stating "Release xM RAM" where x is a number that typically varies each time I click the button. Any idea about this? I recall that a few years ago I had read something that explained it but now I have forgotten it.
Gem: You've perfectly described a very common, though often misleading, feature on many generic Android devices, particularly TV boxes and cheaper smartphones: the "RAM cleaner" or "speed booster" button, often represented by a rocket ship icon.
You're right to recall having read about it before, because its function and effectiveness have been a long-standing point of discussion and debate in the Android community.
Here's what that rocket button on your H96 Max is doing:
It's a Task Killer / Memory Cleaner (or claims to be):
The primary purpose of this button is to force-stop background applications and clear cached processes from RAM.
When you see "Release xMB RAM," it's telling you how much memory it claims to have "freed up" by closing these applications.
The animation of the rocket taking off symbolizes "boosting" or "cleaning" your system.
Why manufacturers include it:
Perceived Performance Improvement: For users, especially those unfamiliar with Android's sophisticated memory management, a device that feels sluggish often correlates with "full RAM." These buttons offer an immediate, visible action that gives the impression of speeding up the device.
User Expectation: Many users coming from Windows or older, less efficient mobile OSes are used to manually "cleaning" RAM or closing programs. Manufacturers cater to this expectation.
Masking Inefficiencies: On lower-spec or poorly optimized devices (like some budget H96 Max models can be), these cleaners might be included to somewhat mitigate the effects of an inefficient custom launcher or too much bloatware running in the background.
The Android Perspective: Why it's often counterproductive:
Android Manages RAM Efficiently: Modern Android (since roughly Android 5.0 Lollipop and definitely by Android 10, which your H96 Max runs) is designed to manage RAM very efficiently.
It actively tries to keep frequently used apps "cached" in memory. This means the app starts much faster when you open it again because it doesn't need to load from scratch from slower storage. Force-Stopping is Wasteful: When you click that rocket button, you're telling Android to discard those cached apps. The next time you open them, Android has to load them completely from storage, which actually consumes more CPU cycles, more battery, and takes longer.
Apps Relaunch Anyway: Many apps (especially system services or apps with background notifications/updates) will simply relaunch themselves shortly after being force-stopped. So, the "freed RAM" is often quickly re-filled, leading to a cycle of "clean" and "re-load" that can actually reduce overall efficiency and battery life.
Limited Real Impact: The amount of RAM these cleaners truly "free" that isn't almost immediately reclaimed by Android's own processes or necessary background services is often minimal in terms of long-term performance gains.
In essence, the rocket button is a user-facing "feel-good" feature. It provides a satisfying animation and a number that makes you think you've optimized your system. While it does temporarily kill background app processes, for a well-designed Android system, this is generally unnecessary and can even be detrimental to responsiveness.
However, for a budget device like the H96 Max with potentially aggressive background processes or a slightly bloated custom firmware, using it occasionally might give a fleeting sense of snappiness if many heavy apps were genuinely stuck and unresponsive in the background. But it's not a magic bullet for sustained performance.
So, you're not imagining things, and your recollection of what it does is correct – it's a RAM cleaner/booster, a common feature on these types of devices, with a somewhat questionable real-world benefit.
- Manage keyboards -> Select NoKeyboard
- After above, Current keyboard field will be NoKeyboard
- Physical keyboard -> Show virtual keyboard (Keep it on screen while physical keyboard is active) -> Put it off [Even then on screen keyboard can appear at times. Use mouse right-click to hide on screen keyboard.]
- Set Nokeyboard to Allowed. [This shows Nokeyboard menu at the bottom of screen when mouse is clicked on input box/field enabling choosing NoKeyboard's on screen keyboard when needed.][Later, to test it, I turned it off (so Not Allowed) and restarted the h96, IFIRC. NoKeyboard app's menu still appeared on bottom of screen when mouse is clicked on an input box/field.]
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